Taste of Thai
101 N. 11th St.
215-629-9939
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
Classic Thai cuisine
I’m often asked how I choose a restaurant to review. Obviously, I like to try new restaurants — such as Tir na nOg Bar & Grill — especially since so many have recently opened their doors throughout the city. Or I might visit a consistently fine place like Friday Saturday Sunday that’s been in business for 30 years. After laughing my way through My Big Fat Greek Wedding, I developed an instant yen for Greek fare and headed over to Dmitri’s in Fitler Square.
I prefer to write about a diversity of cuisine. I don’t want to review several Italian restaurants in a row. Moderately priced, BYOB places that dot the city’s neighborhoods, such as Radicchio Cafe and Bellini Grill, are high on my list. I am constantly searching for good family restaurants as well.
Until recently, I never reviewed a restaurant as a result of finding a parking space.
On a cold, rainy evening, Edward and I hopped in the car and drove to Chinatown. I heard about a relatively new Indonesian restaurant on Race Street and thought we would give it a try. We circled around for at least 15 minutes and happened upon a spot right outside a charming Thai restaurant called Taste of Thai. "Let’s try it," I said. "We haven’t had Thai food in a long time."
Like Chinese and Vietnamese fare, Thai cuisine makes use of almost every ingredient under the sun. But it is most famous for its curries, coconut-milk sauces, sweet-and-sour sauces and condiments, pungent lemongrass and sweet or spicy basil sauce. Fruit sauces also turn up in Thai food.
Although the weather was miserable, many of the tables were taken. A couple with a toddler, happily watching the tropical fish swimming around in the tank; a group of college students and businesspeople were among the patrons. Taste of Thai is another good family restaurant.
A glass of Corbett Canyon Chardonnay was well priced at $5. The wine list features several wines by the glass and bottles as well. Bottled beers from around the world are also on offer. Beer goes well with spicy Thai fare.
A pleasant young woman took good care of us. She asked how spicy we preferred our food and we told her on the mild side. She also knew how to pace our meal. One dish came out at a time, allowing us to savor each one before the next arrived.
We began dinner with ka-nom pang na moo, roasted, marinated pork served with sweet-and-sour cucumber ($6.95). Large, round slices of tender pork loin were first marinated in a light sauce that was slightly sweet yet a bit piquant. They were roasted in the oven and developed a deliciously crisp exterior, which Edward and I found tasty. A mound of shredded cucumber dressed in a sweet-and-sour vinaigrette came with the pork.
Deep-fried squid served with a sweet pepper dipping sauce ($6.95) consisted of fresh, flat pieces of mollusk, cut from the body. They were dipped in a light batter and fried ’til golden brown. They were crisp and free of grease. The dipping sauce added a nice flavor, but the squid were delicious on their own. Slices of cucumber and tomato came with it.
From pork and squid, we proceeded to poultry and decided on duck. The crispy duck with tamarind sauce ($15.95) was a half-roasted bird, its plump breast meat sliced along with the leg. Although it wasn’t greasy, we felt the skin could have been crisper. The tamarind dipping sauce imparted a slightly fruity flavor that we liked. Tamarind is a fruit also known as Indian date. When the fruit is dried, it becomes sour. When it is not, it is made into a sweet syrup. This sauce was a flavorful combination of two contrasting tastes.
Rice and noodles are an integral part of Thai cuisine. They form the base for spicy curries or dishes prepared with coconut milk, lemongrass or basil sauce.
Pad Thai is probably Thailand’s most famous noodle dish. There are any number of versions prepared in Thai restaurants. Some contain a choice of chicken or shrimp, or a combination of both. Some are purely vegetarian and made with tofu. Stir-fried onions, bean sprouts and crisp chopped peanuts turn up most often in pad Thai. Rice noodles are always used. Taste of Thai’s version ($10.95) includes shrimp.
We received a large mound of perfectly cooked rice noodles, which had the consistency of thin linguine. Bean sprouts and onions were tossed with the noodles. Four small shrimp sat on top. We felt the dish could have been hotter and I missed the delicious crunch chopped peanuts add to pad Thai.
As with so many Asian restaurants, Taste of Thai’s menu is large. It takes some time to look over 71 items and find dishes to fit individual tastes. There are rice and noodle dishes and a good selection of vegetarian dishes as well. Portions are a good size and amply serve two. Service was excellent. It’s delightful to discover a restaurant as a result of finally finding a parking spot on a rainy, blustery night.
Two tips of the toque to Taste of Thai.
