Mixto

Mixto
1141 Pine St.
215-592-0363
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible (restrooms on ground level)
Perfectly prepared home-style South American/Cuban food

Whenever my husband Edward and I visit our cousins in Miami Beach, we always head over to Little Havana for honest-to-goodness Cuban food. South Florida is filled with marvelous, inexpensive South American and Cuban restaurants. The flavors of Colombia, Ecuador, Nicaragua, Puerto Rico, Venezuela, the Dominican Republic and Brazil can be found in any number of grocery stores, shops and places to eat.

The South American/Cuban culinary invasion in Philadelphia has been going on for several years. Azafran, ¡Pasion!, Cuba Libre, Cafe Havana, Alma de Cuba and Cibucan are a few that quickly come to mind. To be frank, I prefer simple home-cooking to the fancy-schmancy creations served at expensive upscale restaurants with overpriced wine lists.

Several months ago, my husband brought home the menu from Mixto, Philadelphia’s newest and best all-around South American/Cuban restaurant. Herewith are the reasons I think it is the best of its type and one of the best new restaurants of 2002.

The multilevel eatery has exposed brick walls, copper fittings, perfect lighting, colorful oil paintings, highly polished wood tables, comfortable chairs and banquettes, white linen napkins, multicolored dinnerware crafted in Ecuador and a fairly good noise level, considering the place was totally packed during dinner. The salsa music, however, could have been a little softer.

The staff members, kitted out in starched white shirts and pretty yellow silk ties, have been perfectly trained. They watch the tables and take care of you as if you were kin without being overbearing. Martha, the bartender, who was born in Colombia, and our server were so knowledgeable about the large menu, they must have tasted nearly every item.

I tip my toque to Mixto, which means "mixed" in Spanish, straightaway because there are no specials. I tip my toque again because the wine list features a number of bottles between $19 and $22. We sipped a rich 1999 Malbac from Argentina ($20) and tried to make decisions from the menu.

We discovered the owners, who put together a "mixed" South American menu, are from Ecuador. Martha told me many of the dishes represent what South American families enjoy at home. Spanish and Portuguese flavors also appear here, as these Iberian countries influenced the cooking of South America.

A basket of warm Cuban pressed bread arrived. As soon as we finished it, our waiter offered us more.

Papa rellena ($2.50) was a large patty fashioned from hot mashed potatoes and filled with nicely seasoned minced beef. It was covered in fine bread crumbs and quickly fried to a golden brown. This is one of Cuba’s most famous appetizers and is often given to children as an after-school snack.

Arepas con chorizo ($3.50) was another winning appertivo. Chorizo is a highly seasoned sausage made with coarsely ground smoked pork. When it is properly cooked, it is heavenly. The sausage at Mixto was grilled just right, its skin nice and crisp. The mid-sized chorizo arrived with several triangles of arepas — light cornmeal cakes that married well with the slightly spicy sausage.

We had fun opening the package called tamal Cubano ($3.25), a tamale filled with creamy potato studded with bits of ham and sausage. All three appertivos arrived freshly prepared and piping hot.

It is always a delicious adventure for me to try a new dish. It is even better when the dish is a resounding success. Chuleta empanizada ($11.50) was Colombian-style breaded pork filet. This description does not do it justice. I received a large oval of quality pork, pounded thin, rolled in seasoned bread crumbs and quickly sautéed until golden and crisp. It was the South American version of veal cutlet alla Milanese but with a pork substitute. I squeezed on some fresh lemon juice and could not believe how absolutely delicious and tender the pork was in this entrée. Lettuce, sliced tomato and sweet red onion rings sat next to the pork.

At Mixto, you get a choice of any three side dishes with each entrée. I tip my toque here again. Three side dishes — good-sized portions, I should tell you — with dinner is not a common restaurant practice. I selected yellow rice, perfectly cooked and studded with sweet red peppers; black beans that were so uncommonly good, neither raw nor mushy, the texture so fine and the flavor so divine, I wanted to get the recipe from the chef; and several thick slices of ripe avocado. The contrasts of tastes and textures made my entrée a truly delicious experience.

Edward grew up eating paper-thin sliced tongue from the deli. OK, we have to get over what it is. Tongue is a delicacy in many countries, particularly in Belgium and the Netherlands. Edward ordered lengua sudada ($13.50), and was he glad he did. The Colombian-style beef tongue was braised until tender in a light tomato sauce with spices. A large boiled potato and sautéed peppers and onions enhanced the sauce. A side of tostones — slices of plantains that are double-fried until crisp — came with the tongue.

Each dish we ordered at Mixto arrived freshly prepared and piping hot, even though every table was taken. I cannot tell you what a rarity this is in restaurants today. Portions are generous, the flavors rich and clear, prices so moderate I had to double-check the menu.

Another plus: Mixto is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Three tips of the toque to Mixto.