27019932
Jones
700 Chestnut St.
215-223-5663
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday
Open for brunch and dinner Saturday-Sunday
Perfect heartwarming American food
Jones. A funny name for a restaurant, no? Jones is a common Welsh surname. But there is nothing common about Jones, Stephen Starr’s newest dining spot at 700 Chestnut St. I was clueless as to why he selected this name; why not Smith, for example?
As soon as Edward and I slid onto very comfortable barstools inside this warm and welcoming well-lit restaurant, I knew the answer. There is a large photograph that runs the length of the bar, depicting four women frolicking on a beach. Ah, Jones Beach. That most famous place off Merritt, Long Island, N.Y., where families enjoy summer fun.
We ended up at the bar because the hostess advised a 25-minute wait (Jones does not take reservations). When we discovered we could eat at the bar, we stayed. Jennifer the bartender took extremely good care of us.
I could not help but notice the hazelnut-crusted scallops with roasted carrot sauce nestled on a bed of green lentils that a young man was enjoying nearby. His friend’s fried chicken looked appealing as well. Save for a French nod here and an Asian influence there, the fare at Jones is pure American. Jewish deli favorites such as potato latkes, chicken noodle soup, cheese pierogies, brisket sandwiches and a brisket dinner reign supreme at Jones.
Jones is a hustle-bustle kind of place. The walls are warm seasoned brick and I particularly liked the huge, easy-to-see clock that reads "Eat at Jones." Jennifer mixed superb martinis and we perused the menu.
With all the good bread available locally, I am curious why Starr buys his poppy-seed rolls from Los Angeles’ Le Brea Bakery, owned by Nancy Silverton, one of America’s finest artisan bakers. The rolls arrived warm and we loaded them with butter.
I immediately got big eyes, as I wanted to sample almost every comfort food on the menu. Cheese pierogies with caramelized onions ($5) took me straight back to childhood when my family and I enjoyed dinners at the now-shuttered Blintza and Ambassador dairy restaurants. Pierogies can be either boiled or pan-seared. These plump pillows were fashioned from a light egg dough and filled with cheese. They were seared and topped with sweet caramelized onions. My wedge of iceberg lettuce with Russian dressing ($5) was a perfect prelude to dinner as well. The lettuce was immaculately fresh, cool and crisp, topped with slivers of fresh carrot and surrounded by paper-thin slices of English cucumber and red ripe tomato. Authentic Russian dressing, served in Jewish delis, must be pale pink, almost a shrimp color. This dressing was superbly made, smooth and creamy, with the right balance of mayonnaise and ketchup. Edward and I cleaned our plates.
Since Hanukkah begins tomorrow night, I had to try Jones’ potato latkes ($4) and the brisket of beef dinner ($13.75). I am so glad I did. We received three large, crisp, paper-thin potato pancakes that arrived piping-hot, along with little metal containers of applesauce and sour cream. OK folks, this is it. These latkes were as good as mine. Edward and I easily could have savored another order, but I had to curtail my big eyes.
I like brisket when it is cut thin against the grain. The beef was tasty and very tender, topped with a seasoned reduction of natural gravy. My dinner, which was a good portion, by the way, came with roasted carrots and heavenly roasted chippoline onions.
The turkey pot pie ($9.50) was a masterpiece. Pot pies are another comfort food from my childhood. Mom would pop in a Swanson or Meyer’s pot pie and I would be very happy. This made-from-scratch version was a delicious triumph. As soon as Edward broke the crust, which was a cross between puff pastry and savory crust, so much steam emerged, he had to wait a few minutes before sampling the dish. Good-sized bits of breast and thigh meat were mixed with chunks of potato and carrot. The creamy gravy was so rich, I finished it off using a spoon.
We shared an order of creamed spinach ($4), which was as fine as Horn & Hardart’s and believe me, that’s a high compliment. It arrived piping-hot in a soup bowl and was topped with crunchy bread crumbs. The combination of tastes and textures was downright delicious.
From the list of wines by the glass, we selected a fine Côtes du Rhône ($6.50). The list was so moderately priced, I had to double-check the prices.
There must have been about 40 people waiting for tables or dining at the bar. The line was so long, a few people were actually waiting out the door. I know why. Jones offers fine American food, with good portions, at very moderate prices. This is a new concept for Starr because his other restaurants, except for The Blue Angel, are very expensive.
Edward and I were stuffed to our "kishkes." I wish we had room for the desserts, which are all-American and include pumpkin pie, apple crisp, a chocolate-chip ice-cream sandwich, coconut cream pie and several other goodies. Desserts are $4.50 and $5.
Although Jones was packed, we received perfect service and hot, freshly prepared fare. Like Radicchio Café and Mixto, Jones is in the running for the best new restaurant of the year.
Three tips of the toque to Jones.
