25598747
Pif
1009 S. Eighth Street (at Washington Avenue)
215-625-2923
Credit cards accepted
Too small for a wheelchair
Reservations an absolute must
I don’t know why the majority of BYOB restaurants feature Italian food. I do know that each year, Bon Appetit magazine runs the results of a nationwide survey and the outcome never changes: Italian food is the most popular in the United States. People enjoy it in restaurants and enjoy preparing it at home.
Most of the bring-your-own-bottle restaurants in town offer delicious fare at moderate prices. Dinner for two can run as low as $40. So you can imagine how surprised my husband and I were when we took our first glimpse of the menu at Pif, a small but busy French BYOB located near the Italian Market. Except for a salad ($6.50), the appetizers ran $9-$14; entrées started at $21.
Pif, which is French slang for "nose," is rather plain inside. Songs from the era of the French music hall were played at the right decibel and, although the restaurant was packed, the noise level was perfect. Tables are covered with glass and set with cloth napkins.
Those perched on high stools at the small bar can watch chef-owner David Ansill turn out classic French dishes. The small menu changes daily, and Ansill shops daily for his ingredients.
I knew South Philly’s Pif had "arrived" when several of my suburban friends became frequent patrons. Ironically, on the evening we booked a table, friends from Bala Cynwyd were sipping a fine Burgundy, waiting for their dinner when we sat down.
Our waiter offered an assortment of bread from a basket and placed a tiny ramekin of sweet butter on the table. He brought us wine glasses and opened our Montepulciano.
I almost ordered the escargots ($9), but when foie gras is on the bill of fare, I never pass it up. Foie gras can be served warm or cool. The terrine of foie gras appetizer ($14) was a hefty slab of cool, creamy goose liver that was rather bland. The plate contained a few slices of toasted baguette and a dab of fruit compote. That was it. Although the portion was generous, a few cornichons and mixed greens would have enhanced the appetizer. After the toast disappeared, I asked our waiter for more bread.
The hot crabmeat appetizer ($12) consisted of top-quality jumbo lump crab that was mixed with a light, creamy sauce and some baby spinach leaves. This filling formed the inside of a square package made with flaky, savory pastry. It arrived piping hot and tasted freshly made.
As we were eating our first courses, my friend was about to tuck into a quail entrée ($21). She received the roasted little birds on a mound of greens and pronounced it a good choice. She told me her husband was happy with the monkfish ($25 prix-fixe dinner), which came with salad and dessert.
I have not eaten rack of lamb in a long time. Since it is a French bistro/brasserie classic, I ordered it rare and rare it arrived. The rack of lamb ($25) was French-trimmed. Ansill removed the fat from the bones and removed the chine bone as well. This makes for easy eating. But the rack was served in a soup bowl, which made it a little difficult for me to cut through it with a sharp knife.
I found the lamb a little chewy. A red-wine reduction sauce was first ladled into the plate. About one heaping tablespoon of hot whipped potatoes sat in the middle of the pool of sauce. The potatoes were topped with a bit of nicely steamed broccoli rabe. I would have preferred my vegetables on the side, and also would have preferred a larger portion.
Duck confit ($21) is a marvelous comfort food on a cold winter night. When it is properly prepared, it is downright hearty and delicious. Pif’s version was tasty and the portion good-sized. The duck marinated in its own fat for a few days before being roasted in the oven. The meat on the plump leg was tender and almost fell from the bone. Some breast meat was added as well. The confit arrived with cabbage and cubed potatoes — a very classic combination in French cuisine, especially in Alsace, where duck, goose and cabbage are favorites.
Edward and I noticed every table was taken and people were waiting in the restaurant’s entrance. A couple from Fort Lauderdale sat down next to us. We started chatting and discovered the husband was in Philadelphia on business and his wife was a gourmet cook. We talked about French food and traded recipes.
"We are staying at the Ritz-Carlton and a waiter there recommended Pif to us," she told us. It appears that wait staff, concierges and word-of-mouth keep Pif busy. I called the restaurant on a Monday night several months ago and the only time available was 9.
Yet, something is missing here that I can’t quite put my finger on. For sure, Pif is too pricey for a neighborhood BYOB. The small bill of fare could be expanded to include a few appetizers and entrées in the $15-$19 range. The $25 prix fixe is a good find, but offering a few choices would make it a better find. Still, service was good and the place was filled with happy patrons.
Two tips of the toque to Pif.
