Jewish delicacies

In 1923, Sam Auspitz closed his deli on Marshall Street in North Philly and set up shop across town. From the 1880s through the end of World War II, Marshall Street was a bustling Jewish neighborhood filled with Jewish delicatessens.

Auspitz knew South Philadelphia also had a thriving Jewish community, populated with merchants selling everything from kosher chickens to drapery fabrics. He called his new enterprise the Famous 4th Street Delicatessen, but today everyone calls it the Famous.

Sam’s son David cut his deli man’s teeth at the store at Fourth and Bainbridge. Auspitz, 59, is the last of a dying breed. There are few authentic Jewish deli men left in the United States, let alone in Philadelphia.

"There really aren’t many of us left from the old school," said Auspitz. "There are only about 12 real Jewish delis left in the country. The Famous is the oldest Jewish deli in America still owned and operated by the same family."

Auspitz is clear about the definition of a real Jewish deli. The bagels must be real – boiled and then baked in the oven. His, from South Street Bagel on Third Street, fill the bill.

Nova and belly lox must be hand-sliced to order. The corned beef must have the "deckle" attached. This Yiddish word, which is difficult to translate, means the beef has to contain the rich fatty flap on top. Real Jewish delis like the Famous make their own corned beef, which is far different than the kind that is mass-produced, dried and packed in Cryovac.

Although Auspitz grew up in East Oak Lane, he has lived in the same house in Queen Village with his wife, Janie, for nearly 30 years. He holds a degree in personnel management from American University and although he could have had a career in the business world, Auspitz heard his calling early in life. Even as a child, he worked in the store.

"I remember when I was 10 years old, my apron would drag on the floor and the broom was twice my height," he recalled. "In the 1950s, my father took me to the smokehouse at Second and Monroe. There, I watched the men smoking the salmon.

"There was little quality control in those days and my father was very particular. The smokehouse would send my father baskets and boxes of fish. He picked what he wanted and sent the rest back."

Smoked fish is a Jewish deli mainstay and delicacy. Smoked salmon comes in a variety of ways. There is nova, which many people call "unsalty" lox; belly lox, which is on the salty side; smoked jumbo whitefish; smoked "chubs," which are trout; and kippered salmon.

AUSPITZ HAS SEEN the Jewish deli business change through the years. The deli evolved from stores that sold foods by the pound to include restaurants and catering businesses.

"Most Jewish delis emerged after World War II," Auspitz said. "Today the division of labor is different from what it was years ago. You have a staff serving in the restaurant, helping a customer who wants a quarter-pound of corned beef from the counter and catering. The staff works weekends and holidays."

Jewish foods such as smoked salmon and potato latkes have become ubiquitous in upscale restaurants throughout the world. An appetizer of house-smoked salmon sitting on a homemade potato pancake topped with cr�me fra�che and caviar can be found on any number of restaurant menus. Sable, a delicate thick white fish that can be smoked, is now turning up in the unsmoked variety in fancy New York City restaurants.

"All of a sudden, chefs have discovered sable," kibitzed Auspitz. "It’s become fancy. We grew up with it."

The deli owner said his customers represent every ethnic group in town. African- American customers dig into a huge corned beef on rye while Italian Americans enjoy a corned beef special or a Reuben.

"I have two very busy fish days," Auspitz said. "My busiest is the day before Yom Kippur for breaking the fast. The second busiest is Christmas Eve Day. "Nova has become part of the seven fishes," he added with a smile.

With a selection of homemade goodies – including those Famous cookies – the Famous meets another requirement of an authentic Jewish deli.

"Our blintzes, potato latkes and matzo-ball soup are made here fresh every day," said Auspitz. "Nothing is made from a mix."

There has been too much brouhaha about Jewish deli foods not being good for you. Some people think that’s the reason for the decline in authentic Jewish delicatessens.

Auspitz is a strong member of the "everything in moderation" school.

"I don’t like the food police telling everyone what’s healthy and what isn’t," he said. "When people come to the deli, they want a really good sandwich.

"Try and cut the portions in a deli? Fressers," he said, using a Yiddish word for one with a big appetite, "they want to eat."

NOT LISTED? Contact Christina Morabito or your regular advertising representative at 336-2500 for a free listing if your restaurant is in the South Philly area, or to make changes or corrections to existing listings. We have the right to edit or omit listings based on space, accuracy or editorial decision. Listings are based on information provided by the restaurants. The Review is not responsible for errors or changes to offerings. We recommend calling first to ensure the restaurants’ offerings are current.