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For weeks I waited in anticipation for the opening of Coquette Bistro and Raw Bar, Cary Neff’s French spot at Fifth and Bainbridge streets. Edward, Mom and I drove by several weeks ago and saw every outdoor table filled.
Coquette is the restaurant of my culinary dreams. Moderately priced authentic French fare is my favorite and Neff has hit the mark beautifully; Coquette is one of the best new restaurants of the year.
The location was a revolving door for years — Thai and Italian places came and went. Since Neff gutted the place, the d�cor is simple yet inviting. There’s a bar and raw bar in front, while black leather banquettes complement brown butcher paper-covered white linen in the dining area. Coquette is BYOB while Neff waits for his liquor license, but the menu is the real star.
I asked my friend Barbara to join me for dinner. We brought French wines, including a crisp Muscadet, which pairs perfectly with seafood, a heady white Burgundy and a Cotes du Rhone. It was a bit warm in the room, but the hostess aimed a large fan at us so we could relax, sip our wine and discuss the menu.
I was immediately recognized by Cornell, one of the best oyster and clam shuckers in the business. He’s wielded his mollusk magic for many years at the Sansom Street Oyster House (also owned by Neff). I frequently go there for lunch and happy hour when the raw bar selections are inexpensive. Within 30 minutes of our arrival, Neff arrived and made his way around the room. He recognized me as well.
Several selections of homemade bread arrived with a tiny dollop of honest-to-goodness chicken liver mousse and sweet whipped butter.
So many of my favorite bistro dishes, plucked from Paris, were on the menu. From the appetizers we selected sardines ($8) and artichokes ($9). Two fresh plump sardines were brushed with olive oil and grilled to slight crispness. "Do you want my head?" Barbara asked with a laugh.
"Sure, it’s one of the best parts," I eagerly replied. Prettily served on slices of grilled bread brushed with olive oil and fresh herbs, the small fish were so tasty.
The artichoke dish was a pleasant surprise. Called "Barigoule" artichokes on the menu, we received a white crock with a lid. Opening it Barbara discovered a hot dish of diced fresh artichokes, thick slices of slightly salty ham and diced sweet ripe red tomatoes. We topped the grilled bread with the mix. This dish was a perfect example of how simplicity, when the ingredients are fresh and top-quality, turns out to be a winner.
We shared the beet salad ($8), which contained an inspiring mix of ingredients. The ruby red beets were roasted, cooled and diced then mixed with a light, lemony dressing topped with toasted pistachio nuts, two thick rounds of creamy goat cheese and a handful of mache. We were in heaven. Pistachios were a welcome change from the usual walnuts. Most beet salads are loaded with mesclun or romaine, but in this version the beets, not the greens, were the star.
Maybe the crisp Muscadet compelled us to order fish. The black cod special ($19) featured seasonal greens, such as tiny peas, that paired well with the meaty cod, but my dish ($17) was a little on the salty side. It consisted of a fully boned saut�ed rainbow trout topped with an anchovy-butter-almond sauce. A brilliant French trick — soaking the anchovies in milk before cooking — could have made it less salty. My dinner also included round slices of roasted potatoes and fresh haricot verts.
Neff sent over dessert. The apricot tart was sweet and fresh, but the custard was a little runny. The homemade flavors of lavender and rich espresso ice cream were a triumph of taste.
Coquette was filled by the time Barbara and I ordered a cheese plate for two ($10). From the list, we selected Comte — a marvelous cow’s milk cheese from France — a heady aged gouda, which also is made from cow’s milk, and Roquefort, one of my favorite French blue cheeses made with sheep’s milk that is slightly salty. The plate was pretty with the cheese sliced for easy eating and more of Coquette’s homemade bread. Barbara and I sipped glasses of the Cotes du Rhone.
A close neighbor of mine was also at Coquette with friends. "The salad Nicoise was delicious," she said. "Everyone at our table enjoyed their dinner."
Reserve a table because dining at Coquette is a true French bistro experience — the next best thing to booking a flight to Paris.
Three tips of the toque to Coquette.
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Coquette Bistro and Raw Bar
Corner of Fifth and Bainbridge streets
215-238-9000
Credit cards accepted
