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I first met chef Peter Dunmire in 1999 at The Blue Angel, Stephen Starr’s beautifully executed French brasserie on Chestnut Street. The place was drop-dead gorgeous and looked as if Starr went to Paris, dismantled a restaurant and brought it back to Philly. It was so authentic, he installed a bar of zinc since Parisian bars are, more often than not, fashioned from zinc. To this day, I do not know why the restaurant closed.
I was impressed by Dunmire’s care in planning the menu and his brilliant use of fresh ingredients. I dined at Blue Angel on a number of occasions and named it the best new restaurant that year.
Dunmire re-surfaced at North 3rd, a new-American bistro in Northern Liberties. He left two months ago when Mark Bee, who worked with Dunmire at the spot, reopened the defunct Silk City, a once popular diner on Spring Garden Street.
Silk City was renovated and looks just like a diner should. There’s a long Formica bar with shiny chrome stools and black leather seats. Booths are black and red leather — red being "the" color for diner interiors.
Mom, Edward and I settled into a roomy booth. There’s something for everyone on the menu with specials on a separate sheet of paper, meaning no droning recitation from the waitstaff. Bravo!
We began dinner with a cheese quesadilla ($8), duck and mushroom spring rolls ($7) and a salad of heirloom tomatoes ($9), a special since these delicious beauties are in season.
The quesadilla arrived piping hot, filled with melted cheese, kernels of roasted sweet corn and black beans. We liked the contrast of tastes and textures in the filling. A large side plate was filled with bits of fresh, chopped ripe red tomato, sour cream and homemade guacamole. Mom tasted a quesadilla a few years ago and she has been hooked ever since She says it’s Mexican pizza.
The spring rolls were grease-free and crisp. Filling them with duck instead of the usual chicken, shrimp or beef was inspired. Duck and mushrooms are a heady marriage, indeed. Two sauces arrived with the spring rolls — one a spicy Asian mustard, the other a sweet chili sauce. If mixed together, you get quite a sensation.
Branch Creek Farm supplied the red and deep yellow tomatoes that comprised the special (it supplies many of the local restaurants). Dunmire sliced them thick, topped them with fresh mozzarella, a bit of sweet red onion, chopped fresh fragrant basil and drizzled the salad with a reduction of balsamic vinegar and deep green extra-virgin olive oil. The appetizer, enjoyed with slices of grilled bread, was so satisfying it was a meal in itself.
We sipped mid-size martinis ($7) with our appetizer, which were fairly priced.
For our entr�es, Mom went straight to the daily menu and ordered meatloaf ($10). Edward and I looked to the specials and decided on pork loin ($18) and seared tuna ($18).
Mom’s dinner consisted of a big slab of homemade juicy meatloaf. Dunmire included finely shredded carrots in his beef mix, imparting a fine flavor. He topped it off with homemade mushroom gravy and included a mound of tiny sweet peas and dreamy mashed potatoes on the side. The meal arrived piping hot and was so big we toted half of it home — peas and potatoes included — for lunch the next day. (Mashed potatoes reheat very well if you place some milk in the bottom of a saucepan and top the potatoes with a bit of butter before gently reheating.)
Although pork, cabbage and apples are a perfect fall dish, I ordered the pork loin because it was comfortably air conditioned in Silk City. Dunmire wrapped a loin of pork in imported Proscuitto di Parma, roasted it and sliced it. The meat was cooked to perfection. His mix of fennel, cabbage and green apples was divine with its licorice flavor. I also received mashed potatoes and took half of my meal home for lunch.
Edward’s seared tuna, arriving rare as ordered, was crusted with fragrant fresh thyme and crushed peppercorns. We both like red wine sauces with fish and this one did not disappoint. Dunmire reduced the sauce and added slices of wild mushrooms. I usually do not care for mushrooms with fish, but this worked. Fresh saut�ed spinach came with the tuna.
Mom and I shared a pint of Yuengling lager ($3) and Edward sipped a brew from nearby Yards ($4).
Portions at Silk City are large and satisfying while the service was perfect even though the place was quite busy. A party of four, including two kids, were dining in a large booth. Children will be comfortable here and I am always searching for restaurants where kids can enjoy themselves.
Desserts are limited and featured a root beef float, a banana split and ice cream. I always want pie at the end of a diner meal so I hope desserts will be developed as autumn arrives.
For now, Silk City is open for dinner and Sunday brunch. I fondly recall the pancake breakfasts I enjoyed in its former pre-renovated state, so perhaps weekday breakfast and lunch will be in the future.
Three tips of the toque to Silk City.
Silk City
435 Spring Garden St.
215-592-8838
Credit cards accepted
