Moonshine Philly

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I clearly recall the lone time I tasted moonshine. Chef Jack McDavid, a good old Southern boy to the core, had just opened Jack’s Firehouse. He lovingly brought out his homemade hooch from his still after pouring it into a large jug. We did not toss one down hoisted from the jug. He poured me a glass.

It tasted like firewater.

I thought about that night during dinner at Moonshine Philly, a delightful neighborhood pub in Pennsport. It was easy to find. The brightly lit sign hangs above the outdoor seating, complete with a Parisian heat lamp, where people were enjoying a pint and having dinner.

We sat at the bar to watch some college football and ordered a Rob Roy ($13.50) and a martini ($8) as we perused the menu, which is all over the map. Italian, American and Mexican dishes are on offer.

Soup of the day ($5) was brisket and potato. That seemed odd. I usually think of a creamed soup when I think of potato soup. This looked like the gravy one would get after braising a brisket for hours. The soup was tomato-based, with bits of tender brisket keeping company with potatoes, onions and carrots. It was thinned with a bit of stock, and I confess it was rather tasty.

French onion soup ($5) did not fare as well. It was piping hot from the oven, but as soon as I took a spoonful, the salt monster came over me. The broth was much too salty, but the onions were nicely caramelized, and the cheese added a bit of texture.

Beet salad ($9) was pleasant enough. Cool red beets were tossed with cashews, some greens and blue cheese. The dressing lacked seasoning and a bit of acid. Vinegar or lemon juice would have produced a better flavor, but some salt did help.

Arugula salad ($9.50) was truly bland. A small mound of spicy baby arugula leaves was saturated with a bland dressing made with pulverized pistachio nuts and olive oil. If the nuts had been salted and chopped, it would have added texture. Sliced sweet figs were fine on their own but did little for the greens. Bits of cheese were supposed to be included, but I did not receive any cheese. I thought the addition of endive or romaine lettuce would have given the salad more crunch.

The staff at Moonshine Tavern is first-rate, possessing a friendly, yet professional nature. Two bartenders answered our questions about wine and dishes on the bill of fare.

I wanted a glass of red wine to sip with a cheeseburger ($9.50). Malbec from Argentina has gained in popularity in restaurants and pubs throughout the city, and the year-old Pennsport location offers three of them. A bartender offered me a sip of each so I could make my selection. My choice ($6) imparted a rich flavor that I knew would drink well with a burger. Since Edward ordered a catfish sandwich ($9), he chose a light crisp Pinot Grigio ($6).

I ordered my cheeseburger medium rare. Patrons can choose either French fries or tater tots. I love tater tots. The best I ever tasted are served at Society Hill’s Jones. Unfortunately, the burger arrived well done. A bartender apologized and agreed it was well done. He ordered a fresh burger to be prepared. It was still not medium rare, but was not overcooked like the first one. The beef was nicely seasoned and served on a not-too-sweet brioche bun. Tater tots are fried creations that are crispy on the outside and creamy, like a potato latke, on the inside. I received small rounds of potatoes that neither looked nor tasted like tater tots.

The fried catfish in the sandwich was perfect. It was moist on the inside and crispy, free of grease, on the outside. A spicy slaw was slathered on top. I liked it better than Edward, who prefers tartar sauce with fried food. The sandwich reminded me of catfish po’ boys.

Moonshine Philly, which retains the original tin ceiling and pretty, almost late-Victorian wood bar, was filled outside and inside by the time we finished dining. The noise level was perfect, as was the lighting. Edward recognized a co-worker and his dinner companion who reside in the neighborhood and have become regulars.

The dishes we sampled needed a bit more attention to detail and flavor. Still, we enjoyed our mean in the company of a fine staff and South Philly residents.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Moonshine Philly. ■

Moonshine Philly

1825 E. Moyamensing Ave.

267-639-9720

moonshinephilly.com

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