175695141
In the late 1970s, Phyllis Richman, then-restaurant critic for The Washington Post, wrote “there are four great cuisines in the world: French, Italian, Chinese and Philadelphia.” Richman’s comments saluted the famed “Restaurant Renaissance,” as chefs carved out restaurants from storefronts, old warehouses and townhouses. This glorious period made Georges Perrier a star in his adopted city and throughout the world.
When Chef Peter Woolsey opened Bistrot La Minette, 623 S. Sixth St., a number of years ago, he brought his love of classic French fare center stage. I have dined in his colorful dining room on a number of occasions and was rarely disappointed.
Woolsey’s second venture is La Peg, which he describes as a contemporary brasserie. It is located in the FringeArts building on North Columbus Boulevard, which served as a pumping station more than 100 years ago.
The well-lit small open kitchen is to the left upon diners’ entering. The entire room, which has looming ceilings and windows, is dark, with hanging lamps that emit no light. It was so dark at our corner table, we had to pull out our cell phones throughout the meal. We could not read the menu nor see Woolsey’s creations on the plates. Four guests next to us did the same thing.
The menu features small, mid-size and large plates. I am not a fan of this style of dining, but the dishes intrigued me. Our delightful server helped us to navigate the menu.
We sipped drinks and tried to enjoy the dark dining experience. Lusty French bread and creamy butter were the perfect culinary foils for our starters. All were $3. Potatoes Piedmontaise were luscious little squares of cool potatoes tossed with ham, cornichons and the right touch of mayonnaise. Lentils were mixed with mirepoix, little bits of carrot, celery and onion, napped in a light mustard vinaigrette. Mushrooms à la Grecque is a classic dish that consisted of mushrooms braised in white wine and lemon juice, then cooled.
I have not seen full carafs of wine on a menu in many years. La Peg offers a house Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay for $23. The Cabernet was fine and drinkable.
Beef tartare ($11) was a rectangle of raw beef with scallions, cornichons and bits of chorizo topped with a mustard vinaigrette. There was no raw egg yolk on top for me to mix into the beef. A film of egg yolk on the plate did not add to the flavor of this dish.
Foie gras torchon ($13) is the cool version of foie that takes about four days to prepare. Woolsey’s version consisted of a narrow log, which lacked flavor, topped with strands of frisee, which detracted from the foie. I scraped them off and spread the foie on toasted brioche. A scattering of toasted walnuts added a bit of crunch, along with pickled raisin butter, which I thought, at first glance in the dark, was pureed figs. Something sweet pairs nicely with foie gras.
Autumn is the time for choucroutte garnie ($25). This classic from Alsace is a one-pot wonder made with sauerkraut, fresh and smoked pork, white wine, caraway and juniper berries and is always served with boiled potatoes. It is a lusty, hearty, homestyle dish I make at my residence.
Oh, mon Dieu! Woolsey presented us with a deconstructed choucroutte on a rectangular dish. He placed the ingredients in a line like soldiers waiting to march. There was a small mound of sauerkraut, pork shoulder, some slab bacon, which was difficult to slice, a small piece of bratwurst, a piece of black pudding and a potato. Oh, and some mustard, which is always served with choucroutte. Because it was deconstructed, I longed for the pleasurable experience of eating choucroutte.
I could not decide between the braised lamb or the braised rabbit. I ordered the lamb, which was way too salty and also cold. A gentleman, whom I assumed is the manager of La Peg, brought me a steaming bowl of tender braised rabbit ($11) mixed with chopped tomatoes and served over handmade tagliatelle. Along with the three starters, this was the tastiest dish of the night.
Another fine dish was the Paris-brest ($7), a light circle of perfect pate a choux, filled with hazelnut cream and served with rich, deep, chocolate sauce.
Service was first-rate. Several people took fine care of us, but the rhythm of the meal was perpetually interrupted because our cell phone lights were constantly turned on. I do not understand why diners are forced to feel uncomfortable. Dining should be a pleasurable and enjoyable experience.
Two tips of the toque to La Peg. ![""]("http://media.atlanticcityweekly.com/images/RR_toques.jpg")
La Peg
140 N. Columbus Blvd.
215-375-7744
175695141
175695041
