Lo Spiedo

177253731

When we came to the end of the long drive down South Broad Street, we were greeted by a man who treated us as if we were his long lost cousins.

“Welcome to the Navy Yard. My name is Michael. How can I help you?”

“We are looking for Lo Spiedo,” I said.

“It is right over there. Enjoy your evening,” he replied.

Michael pointed to a building across the street. The woman who took my reservation told me about a parking lot behind the restaurant. It was filled, but luckily we found street parking a block away.

Good thing I made a reservation. Lo Spiedo was packed.

The site is Marc Vetri’s newest restaurant. He is a James Beard Award-winning chef and undoubtedly the finest Italian chef in the city. He changed the way many of us think abut regional Italian cuisine.

Lo Spiedo is a bi-level casual and rustic space. One of the hostesses checked out coats and brought us up in the elevator to the second floor. Tables are highly polished wood set with linen napkins and white plates. The servers who took care of us were among the most professional I have encountered in quite a while. One explained the happy hour prices listed on a separate menu.

A Bluecoat martini ($15) and a Negroni ($11) kept us happy until our appetizers arrived. Popcorn tossed with parmigiano butter ($1.50 Happy Hour) was a not-at-all-salty snack that went well with drinks. I was intrigued with the focaccia selections. A server told us slices of warm focaccia are served with each order. Beef tartare ($4 Happy Hour) was hand-chopped and seasoned just right. The menu states it is mixed with bagnetto verde, which tasted like a bagna calde mixed with finely minced herbs. The sauce was so tasty, I did not miss the raw egg usually topped on beef tartare. Fresh grilled sardines with olives ($5 Happy Hour) were another winner. The contrast of flavors and textures in this appetizer made it perfect for topping the focaccia. Each appetizer may appear small, but it is large enough for two people.

Roast chicken is a thing of beauty and is one of my favorite dishes. Italians love roast chicken so much, Lidia Bastianich wanted it to be her last meal on an episode of “Top Chef.

The one-half chicken at Lo Spiedo ($18) is not roasted in an oven. It is rubbed with lemon, olive oil and seasonings before it is spit roasted. I found it way too salty, which was a shame because it was roasted to perfection. The breast meat was not as salty as the thigh and leg, which I could not enjoy. I told a server it was too salty, and the dish was omitted from the bill.

Brisket, especially barbecued, has been all the rage for many years. Barbecue restaurants love this classic yet somewhat tough cut of beef. A half order ($16) of brisket from Creekstone farm consisted of a cube of beef sitting in an individual cast-iron pan. Every Jewish grandmother knows brisket must be sliced against the grain for long even slices. This beef was stringy but emitted a fine flavor, although I thought it could have used a sauce. The meat was moist and most tender.

A small glass pitcher of Karamoor red wine ($28) was a merlot-cabernet blend and drank nicely with the chicken and beef.

From the sides, we selected BBQ carrots ($5) and spit-roasted cabbage ($7). The carrots were coated in ranch dressing, yet we found them to be overly sweet. The cabbage, on the other hand, was downright delicious. It was coated in Gorgonzola, which added a tasty tang. Each side is served in an individual cast-iron pan. Our thoughtful server remembered to bring us utensils, which is rarely done these days.

A sundae was listed among the dolci ($8). I have a vision of what a sundae should look like, a tall glass filled with ice cream and all the trimmings. This version took me aback. A cast-iron pan contained two small scoops of overly sweet chocolate gelato topped with caramel and meringues shaped like Hershey Kisses. A gentleman asked how I liked it, and I told him it was way too sweet to eat. When we received the check, it was omitted from the bill.

The appetizers, one entrée and one of the sides were first-rate. Yet other dishes paled in comparison. The service, however, made our dinner a fine evening that kicked my toques up a notch.

Three tips of the toque to Lo Spiedo

Lo Spiedo

4503 S. Broad St., at The Philadelphia Navy Yard
215-282-3184
lo-spiedo.com

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

177253731
177253601