Danté Espresso Bar Cafe

December 11, 2014

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Nestled among Laurel, Townsend and Paradiso on East Passyunk Avenue is Danté Espresso Bar Cafe. If you blink twice, you might miss it. After a scrumptious dinner at Paradiso a few weeks ago, I noticed the menu in the window and made a mental note to review it.

This cash-only restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I am always looking for new Sunday brunch options and visited the website. The menu is moderately-priced and offers something for everyone.

There is a long coffee bar in the front room with some high-top tables and a dining room in the back. The barista was busy making espresso, lattes and the like for patrons at the bar, some of whom were busy surfing the Internet on their cell phones. The colorful artwork added warmth to both spaces. We settled into a table for two near a family who hoped we did not mind that cartoons were playing on the television.

“It is for the children,” the dad said.

Hey, I love cartoons.

Our server told us the menu was being reworked.

“I know everything by heart,” he said, with a smile.

Danté serves La Colombe coffee ($2), a favorite of mine.

“I will put on a fresh pot,” he said.

Coffee is served in large white café au lait cups with saucers.

The crunchy French toast ($11) is prepared with either crushed Frosted Flakes or Captain Crunch. Thick slices of challah were dipped into eggs and covered with Frosted Flakes. They were browned beautifully on each side, topped with a handful of mixed berries and a sprinkling of confectioner’s sugar. I thought the offering might be too sweet, but it wasn’t. A squirt of real maple syrup from a squeeze bottle contributed to the success. The fresh berries were a nice plus, too. A fat breakfast sausage ($2) was butterflied and grilled. The slightly spicy flavor was a fine foil for the French toast.

I’ve written much about a true French omelette. The chefs at Kraftwork, The Sidecar Bar & Grille, Parc and Hawthornes know how to achieve the perfect omelette. Our server told me the ones at Danté are not stuffed, and are topped with any ingredient the customer desires.

I ordered the omelette with cheddar cheese ($9). It was glistening and golden with not one hint of a brown spot. The eggs were whipped perfectly, hit the hot pan and folded over. It was topped with an almost lava-like cascade of semi-melted cheddar cheese. It was also piping hot.

Omelettes come with roasted potatoes, but I asked if grits could be substituted for them.

I received a medium-sized bowl filled with the creamiest stone-ground grits I have ever tasted since I first ate them 25 years ago on Shem Creek outside of Charleston, S.C. Since the grits revolution of several years ago, the majority of restaurants have nixed the instant version — not that there is anything wrong with them — and cooked the great stoned-ground. At Danté, they are mixed with a hint of cheddar cheese. These grits arrived in a hot bowl and should get an award. Four slices of crisp grease-free bacon ($2) and buttered whole grain toast completed my brunch.

Danté Espresso Bar Cafe is a fine addition to the ever-growing East Passyunk Avenue restaurant scene. I would like to make a return visit and try a sandwich for lunch or brunch. The ones that waltzed out of the kitchen looked enticing.

Three-and-a-half tips of the toque to Danté Espresso Bar Cafe.