Juniper Commons

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Juniper is an essential ingredient in distilling gin. Gin is essential in stirring the perfect martini. Chef Kevin Sbraga has paid tribute to the classic martini and much more at Juniper Commons, his sparkling new restaurant located at 521 South Broad Street.

Sbraga, who was named Top Chef more than four years ago, is a Jersey boy born and bred. Growing up in the 80s, he and his family would dine at The Pub. He wanted to bring the 80s-style menu into the 21ist century and he has succeeded on all levels.

Four tips of the toque straight away for the lighting throughout the large dining room. Kudos to the print size on the menu. I could actually enjoy reading it without a flashlight or magnifying glass.

The bar area has a wood-burning oven, an open kitchen with raw bar on display, soft amber and earth tone fabric on the roomy booths.

Since I have been to Sbraga on several occasions, the general manager at Juniper Commons recognized me. He and Sbraga have assembled a first-rate staff who take care of their patrons.

The drinks list is dazzling, including martinis. There are many gins from which to choose. When was the last time you were charged $10 dollars for a perfect martini?

Warm zucchini bread with soft butter when tasty but a bit too sweet to begin the meal. I saved it for later.

The first time I ever sampled a shellfish tower was many years ago in Paris. At Juniper Commons ($45) one will get a two-tired assembly of oysters, including Delaware Bays, littleneck clams, peel-it-yourself shrimp and half a Maine lobster. The oysters and clams were fine with a squeeze of lemon and a dunking of mignonette sauce. I would have preferred cherrystones to the tiny clams, but this is a matter of personal taste. The shrimp were a tad over cooked but the lobster was steamed and chilled just right.

I remember watching tuxedoed waiters prepare Caesar salad tableside at the Vesper Club when I was a girl. Sbraga has brought it back ($18 for two). A waiter mixed crushed raw garlic with olive oil, lemon juice, a dash of Lea & Perrins (this ingredient is often neglected), fresh ground pepper, a pasteurized egg and Parmesan cheese into a large wooden bowl. He added fresh, cool romaine lettuce leaves, and gave it a good toss. He served the salad on Acorac glass salad plates that were all the rage in the 80s. I have a collection at home. I thought the salad needed a bit more olive oil and lemon juice and could have been more eggy. Still, it was a fine prelude to our entrees.

Prime rib of beef ($32) should be served medium-rare as anything else is a crime. The chefs at Juniper Commons know their beef and how to roast it to perfection. It was served with a natural jus and needed no seasoning whatsoever. This entrée was so large, half of it was toted home for lunch the next day.

Salmon was the fish of choice during the 80s as it popped up on menus all over the city. Before that time, flounder was just about the only fresh fish one could find. The salmon ($23) was simply seasoned and cooked mid-rare, a bit translucent inside as it must be. The chefs here know when to leave a good thing alone.

There are a number of wines by the bottle below forty dollars. A gentleman helped us make a selection. He chose a Renegade Cabernet/Merlot blend from California ($36). It was filled with lush fruit, but just a tad too warm. It was chilled for a bit and came back a little on the cool side.

Jumbo baked potatoes remind me of American steakhouses. The potatoes here ($6) are large enough for two but on the small side. It was topped with butter and sour cream. Creamed spinach ($7) is another favorite. Although it was freshly prepared, it needed a bit more butter and cream.

Customers can order a corned beef sandwich or a burger, classic crab cakes (another 80s rage), pasta or eggplant Parmesan. There is something for everyone at Juniper Commons.

Service was exceptional. The staff watches the tables and we did not have to wait long between courses on a busy evening.

The manager wanted us to try a large slice of layer cake. Sbraga’s father was a baker and his wife is a pastry chef. This dessert was light and rich with flavor. And took me right back to the time when everyone, chefs included, was seeking ideas from the “Silver Palate Cookbook.”

Three-and-a-half tips of the toque to Juniper Commons. 

Juniper Commons

521 S. Broad St.
215-735-1913
sbragadining.com

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

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