Bank & Bourbon

180183171

Chef Tom Harkins is a native 2-Streeter and Mummer who now calls South Jersey home. He is not a Jersey Boy to me because this talented man made his mark early in his career at three Philadelphia hotels. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and once told me his favorite sandwich was ham and cheese on white bread with mayonnaise.

I never tasted his food when he was at the Bellevue but enjoyed every dish he made me during his long tenure at The Rittenhouse, pre-LaCroix days.

Harkins has been executive chef at Loews for about 10 years. He oversaw the menu at Solefood, a seafood-based restaurant. The bar and lobby was a riot of color — it looked as if someone spilled a box of Crayola crayons all over the place.

The restaurant is now called Bank & Bourbon. It is kitted out in cognac leather, lots of wood, soft lighting, beautiful hardwood floors and a friendly bar.

Harkins knows when to leave well enough alone. He uses seasonal ingredients and lets them speak for themselves.

The cocktails ($12) were well-mixed. There are many bourbons to choose from, and the knowledgeable bar staff is very helpful with the selection process, especially Brian Bevilacqua, who is a bourbon master.

Handmade pierogies ($8) were filled with sweet peas on my visit and bathed in brown butter with speck and Parmesan. The foie gras chicken liver parfait ($10) was light and airy, perfect to spread on toasted brioche. I liked the inclusion of macerated cherries because fruit always marries well with foie gras.

The charcuterie plate ($10) was a star appetizer for two. A slice of rich, rough country pate, mortadella, Benton’s ham, Creminelli’s prosciutto, along with slices of rustic bread, whetted my appetite for more to come.

Slices of yellowtail sashimi ($12) imparted a pleasant ginger aroma and flavor, as Harkins served it with a Serrano chili ginger oil that paired nicely with pickled plums and a cool avocado puree.

Wines by the glass are moderately priced. A Brancott New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc ($12) and Italian La Rime Pinot Grigio ($10) drank well with our meal.

A succulent filet of salmon ($25) in a light morel sauce was beautifully cooked, still translucent inside. Harkins has always had a fine hand when cooking fish, and this dish did not disappoint. He included whipped sweet potatoes and asparagus to round it out.

Unfortunately, the pastrami brined beef short ribs ($10) were cold and a bit salty. They were served in a buttermilk sauce and topped with chopped scallions. This dish just did not hit the mark and when we received our check, it was removed from the bill.

For dessert, we enjoyed mini donuts with sweet cream, preserves and chocolate sauce.

Loews is housed in the former PSFS building. The historic marker is on full display outside. I liked the changes to the lobby and restaurant. I suspect Bank & Bourbon, in Harkins’ capable hands, will attract not just hotel guests and conventioneers, but the public as well.

Three-and-a-half tips of the toque to Bank & Bourbon. 

Bank & Bourbon

1200 Market St.
215-231-7300
bankandbourbon.com

180183171
180183041