Caffe Valentino’s Pagnotta Rustica

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Anyone familiar with “The Divine Comedy” by Dante Alighieri knows the perils of excessive pride, including disappointment and dismay. Fellow Italian Cosimo Tricarico values the rewards of suitable estimations of one’s gifts and has exuded confidence in his cuisine at Caffe Valentino, 1245 S. Third St., since 2003.

“I love being a part of this community,” the proprietor said from his Pennsport establishment. “It is an exciting area, so I am happy to be an option for residents because we care so much about connecting with them.”

The Gallipoli native has used his admirable wherewithal to open numerous Philadelphia eateries, with Caffe Valentino reflecting his enthusiasm for trumpeting tradition. He and 10-year chef Germano Rosas Luna rely on that verve to inspire their creations, with Tricarico highlighting the pasta and dessert selections and bread offerings, which his Mexican-born colleague and crony helps to hone. An often overlooked item that many see as a filler, bread has achieved revered status among Caffe Valentino patrons, which pleases the owner, himself a doter of dough.

“If I go out to eat and bread is not a beginner, I don’t feel as if I’ve had a meal,” Tricarico said. “It’s especially vital in an Italian restaurant.”

He and Rosas Luna prevent such emptiness with multiple loaves, including their Pagnotta Rustico, which the latter figure often augments by adding fennel, rosemary or sage. On a menu loaded with delectable dishes, the leavened delight proves far more than a starter of a dining experience; it acts as a prelude to a budding relationship with Tricarico.

“I enjoy every interaction with our customers,” the gregarious businessman, who plans to open the Pennsport Beer Boutique next month and who will return to his homeland for July 1 nuptials, said. “I want people to come three or four times a week, but no matter how often they visit, I’m going to try to please them.”

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Chef Germano Rosas Luna

Ingredients:

3 cups of flour

1 teaspoon of yeast

1-1/2 cups of oil

1 cup of water

A pinch of sugar

Directions:

Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl, and knead the dough until it acquires durability. Let rise for one to two hours, though Tricarico suggests a 24-hour stay in a refrigerator for added integrity.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees, and bake for 40 minutes. 

Caffe Valentino
Owner: Cosimo Tricarico
Opened: 2003
1245 S. Third St.
215-336-3033
caffevalentino.com

Photos by Richard Barnes

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