Bliss

Bliss
220 S. Broad St. (between Walnut and Locust)
215-731-1100
Credit cards accepted
Restrooms on first floor
Open for lunch and dinner
Reservations a good idea

Nearly 10 years ago, South Philadelphia-born chef Francesco Martorella nurtured a deep desire to open his own restaurant. He had recently left the Ritz-Carlton, where he put the dining room high on the city’s culinary map. Georges Perrier was a frequent diner at the Ritz and hired Martorella to take charge of the kitchen when he opened Brasserie Perrier exactly seven years ago.

Although Martorella’s résumé included The Fountain at the Four Seasons; Ciboulette, which he owned with Bruce Lim; and Neil Stein’s short-lived Avenue B, I think his stints at the Brasserie and Avenue B helped this talented man develop a strong following.

On Nov. 4, after four months of planning and construction, Martorella opened Bliss on South Broad Street. I looked forward to dining at Bliss because I have always taken delight in the dishes Martorella so meticulously prepares. Although his roots are in Italy, Martorella has always included Asian touches in his recipes. He is one of the few chefs I know who has mastered French, Italian and Asian cuisine.

My husband and I walked in out of the blustery cold and were greeted by a young woman who asked if we had a reservation. We didn’t, but were fortunate that a table was available in the nearly full dining room.

The space in Bliss is bilevel with a small bar. Billowing off-white curtains enhance the entrance and the windows overlooking Broad Street. The wood trim is warm, and Martorella chose a cool blue for the tile floor and one long wall.

As Edward and I sipped our drinks and discussed the menu, Martorella made his way through the dining room. He stopped to chat with other patrons and then came over to us. Although he recognized us, we received the same fine and attentive service as everyone in the dining room. A well-trained staff was always high on Martorella’s list.

Our server brought us a loaf of warm crusty bread, recited the specials (we had to ask for the prices) and left us the wine list. There are a number of wines by the glass in the $6.50-$7.50 range.

I am so happy Bliss is not an Italian restaurant, although Martorella’s signature homemade potato gnocchi with sundried tomato pesto are on the bill of fare. There are strong Asian influences in nearly every dish.

Edward began dinner with a tempura of rock shrimp and asparagus ($12). He received a large white bowl filled with sweet rock shrimp that had been dipped in a homemade tempura batter and quickly fried to a golden brown. Martorella did the same with spears of tender asparagus. Tempura can be tricky; the coating must be light and crisp. It was. Edward and I both enjoyed this appetizer.

I wanted to try one of the specials and decided on the scallops ($13). They were lightly seasoned, perfectly pan-seared, still a bit translucent inside, and served on a cool salad of sweet crab and sliced cucumbers, topped with a light and creamy dressing. I especially liked the combination of hot and cool in this dish. Martorella always knows how to season properly and never once during dinner did we reach for the salt and pepper. A glass of dry Riesling ($6.50), served in a large Italian crystal glass, drank well with both appetizers.

Winter foods are among my favorites. When it is cold outside, hearty fare keeps me happy. On that cold night, I was served the finest duck entrée ($26) in recent memory. Martorella made a confit with the meaty leg, allowed it to marinate in duck fat for a few days, spiced it right and roasted it in the oven. The breast meat was slightly pink and succulent. I received several good-sized slices dusted in aromatic Asian spices, which had a profound effect on my taste buds. The skin was nice and crisp. The duck sat in a pool of port wine sauce that had been properly reduced. I received a mound of hot whipped sweet potatoes with my dinner.

Edward’s lamb shank ($24) was a large meaty shank that had been braised and cooked until it was so tender, the meat fell from the bone. The natural juices were reduced to a glaze enhanced by fragrant rosemary. Rosemary and lamb is a fine culinary marriage. The entrée arrived with whipped sweet parsnips and fresh thin green beans. We both enjoyed a rich red wine from Puglia ($7.50) with our dinner.

Desserts included homemade ice creams and sorbets, but we elected to sample the raspberry tart with rich vanilla ice cream ($8). Our server brought us two forks and an extra plate so we could share this light, delicious sweet.

"Chef would like you to try this," said our waiter as he placed a chocolate delight before us. This dessert consisted of homemade chocolate pudding, which tasted nothing like the cooked or instant stuff of my childhood. The pudding was a cross between a solid and a liquid and had a deep rich chocolate taste. A warm chocolate soufflé-like confection topped with a scoop of dark chocolate ice cream made me vow to stick to my diet after Edward and I delightfully devoured it.

At first glance, Martorella’s menu appears rather simple and straightforward. But the rich, complex flavors and textures are accomplished because Martorella uses top-quality ingredients and allows them to speak for themselves. Entrées are never oversauced. The chef never mixes too many ingredients on the plate.

Service was excellent throughout the meal. Two servers and an assistant took good care of us. Flatware was changed for each course. Our water glasses were filled. The staff — a number of which were recruited from Avenue B — watched the tables.

It is a good sign when a new restaurant is busy during a weeknight, especially since the holidays were a recent memory. Loyal patrons follow a talented chef from restaurant to restaurant. I’m pretty sure Philadelphians will follow Martorella to Bliss.

Three tips of the toque to Bliss.