When the winter doldrums set in, I find myself cooking with more fresh herbs and spices. The aromas of fresh basil, dill, coriander and cinnamon fill the house. For the past 10 years or so, we have been able to purchase fresh basil and other once-thought-exotic herbs all year around. They taste so much better than the dried variety.
Sometimes I am a quirky cook. I always include fresh snipped dill when making chicken soup. But dill is sold in big bunches; what can I do with the leftovers? I simply let my taste buds be the judge.
Dill is delicious in cornbread and biscuits. If you are using a cornbread mix or refrigerated biscuit dough, just sprinkle some chopped fresh dill into the cornbread batter. Once the biscuits are on the cookie sheet, gently pull each one apart and add a bit of dill. Cover with the top of the biscuit dough.
Dill is a required ingredient when I grill or poach salmon. It enhances a simple potato salad and a variety of dips and vegetables.
For some people, coriander is an acquired taste. Someone once said it tasted like soap. Coriander, also called Asian parsley, can be used in most recipes that call for Italian parsley. It is also used in classic Mexican and South American dishes.
Cinnamon is a spice that also travels the world. A number of Hungarian, Austrian and German desserts rely on cinnamon. It is also used in Mexican cooking and in a number of sweet and savory dishes prepared throughout the Middle East. I always add a dash of cinnamon when baking quick breads.
Curry is a blend of up to 20 spices, and can be either mild or hot. Purists like to blend their own. Turmeric gives curry powder its yellow color. I usually purchase the Madras brand, which can be found in supermarkets, spice shops and gourmet stores.
Ground spices have a shelf life of one year. They lose their potency and aroma after that period. I rarely grate cinnamon or nutmeg, and always have a selection of ground spices in my cupboard. However, I always use fresh herbs in recipes, especially since they are widely available now in supermarkets.
Here are recipes that make use of fresh herbs and spices.
Winter Tomato Soup with Fresh Basil
Ingredients:
1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano tomatoes, drained; retain the liquid
1 (15-ounce) can chicken broth
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Handful fresh basil leaves, snipped with scissors
Directions:
Place the tomatoes in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Process until smooth. Place the mixture into a 3-quart saucepan. Add the tomato liquid, chicken broth, kosher salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for about five minutes.
Serve the soup in individual warm bowls. Snip fresh basil on top of each serving.
Serves four to six. Note from Phyllis: You can add about a cup of milk or half-and-half for a light cream of tomato soup. If you have some pesto on hand, you can add a small dollop to each serving. I always use San Marzano tomatoes from Naples. They are the finest canned tomatoes on the market.
Codfish in Coconut Curry
From Ethnic Cuisine: The Flavor Principle Cookbook by Elisabeth Rozin
Ingredients:
1/4 cup dried unsweetened coconut, shredded
3/4 cup milk
1/4 cup butter or ghee
1 large onion, sliced
1 teaspoon ginger root, finely minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon crushed dried red peppers
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon saffron, crushed
2 pounds codfish steaks
Juice of 1 lime
Chopped fresh coriander for garnish
Directions:
Combine the coconut and milk. Let stand two hours, then strain through a cheesecloth, squeezing out all the liquid and discarding the coconut.
In a large, heavy skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the onion, ginger root, cumin, turmeric, coriander, cloves, salt, peppers and saffron. Saut�, stirring, about five minutes.
Add the fish steaks and saut� briefly on both sides. Add the coconut milk and lime juice, bring to a simmer and cook over low heat for about 15 minutes, turning steaks once. Serve with plain rice. Garnish with fresh coriander.
Serves four to six.
Note from Phyllis: You can substitute halibut, haddock or any thick, firm white fish for the cod in this entr�e from India. If you don’t have cheesecloth on hand, strain the coconut and milk in a sieve or colander, pressing against the coconut with a spoon.
Curried Dill Dip
Ingredients:
2 cups sour cream or plain yogurt (not fat-free)
1 teaspoon curry powder, or more, to taste
Juice of 1 small lemon
Snips of fresh dill
Pinch of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Directions:
In a small bowl, whisk together the sour cream or yogurt with the curry powder. Add the lemon juice and blend well. Add the dill, kosher salt and pepper. Blend and taste for seasoning.
Makes 2 cups.
Note from Phyllis: Recipe can be easily doubled. Serve this dip with crisp pita triangles and assorted raw vegetables.
Zucchini Bread
Ingredients:
1-1/2 cups flour
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 medium zucchini, shredded
1/2 cup diced walnuts
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, cinnamon, kosher salt, baking powder and baking soda. In another bowl, beat the eggs with the sugar and vegetable oil until thick. Fold the dry ingredients into the beaten mixture until well blended. Stir in the zucchini and nuts.
Pour the batter into a greased 9-1/2-by-5-1/2-inch loaf pan. Bake for one hour or until a knife inserted comes out clean.
Makes one loaf.
Note from Phyllis: If you are in a hurry, you can make this quick bread in the food processor. If so, process the sugar with the oil first. Then add the dry ingredients and the eggs. Add the grated zucchini and nuts at the end, and just pulse a few times to blend. You can substitute two or three grated carrots for the zucchini in this recipe.
