Shell out for crabs

It happens every spring, around the full moon in May. Suddenly, mysteriously, the Chesapeake blue crab sheds its tough outer shell. If we are fortunate, we will be able to enjoy Maryland’s famous soft-shell crabs through September.

The blue crab was once plentiful and up until about 10 years ago, good-sized soft shells could be found for around $2 apiece. But, as with everything else, prices have gone up.

There are four sizes of soft-shell crabs: whale, jumbo, prime and hotel. Whale is the largest; hotel is the smallest.

Jumbo soft shells are selling for $4.99 apiece at Ippolito’s on 13th and Dickinson. Anastasi’s in the Italian Market is selling whales for $4 and jumbos for $3. John Yi Seafood in the Reading Terminal Market sells primes at three for $10.

Last month, South Philadelphia-born chef Chris Scarduzio introduced three soft-shell crab dishes at Brasserie Perrier. One tasty dish was soft shells tempura-style, which he paired with an avocado salad. Tempura batter mix is available in supermarkets and gourmet shops.

Any type of Asian side dish works well with soft shells tempura-style. Edamame — those healthy, tasty soy beans — along with baby bok choy, would pair well with the crabs. But I liked Scarduzio’s cool avocado salad with the soft shells because the texture enhanced the dish.

Over at the New Wave Caf� in Queen Village, executive chef Jason Seraydarian also has been busy creating dishes with soft-shell crabs. Through the end of June, the restaurant is offering a three-course soft-shell dinner with three glasses of wine for $35, plus tax and gratuity. The soft shells are also available � la carte. One intriguing dish is a saut� of soft shells with sweet Vidalia onions.

Although restaurants will offer soft shells through the summer, you might wish to try preparing them at home. Soft shells are shipped live. They are displayed nestled on seaweed in fish stores. Simply ask the fishmonger to dress them for you. They will then be ready for the pan. It is important to cook soft shells the day you buy them. They are fragile and won’t keep well in the fridge.

Here are recipes for soft-shell crabs.

Simple Saut� of Soft Shells

Ingredients:

4 dressed soft-shell crabs
Flour, for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons canola oil
White wine, to deglaze the pan
Lemon wedges

Directions:

Wipe the soft shells well with paper towels. Set aside. Pour some flour on a plate and add the kosher salt and pepper. Dredge each soft shell in the seasoned flour. Shake off any excess. Place the crabs on a plate.

Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the crabs and saut� for a few minutes on each side, or until golden. Use tongs to turn the crabs.

Place the saut�ed crabs on a plate. Raise the heat to high, add the wine and, using a wooden spoon, stir around the pan, loosening the brown bits on the bottom.

Place the crabs on serving plates and pour the sauce over them. Serve with lemon wedges.

Serves four as an appetizer, two as an entr�e.

Note from Phyllis: You can add some chopped sweet Vidalia onions to the pan, saut� them and incorporate them into the sauce. Another soft-shell variation is to add some slivered almonds to the pan, omitting the onions. Depending on the size of the crabs, you might wish to add a bit more butter to enrich the sauce. I sometimes make a simple saut� of soft shells and serve salsa on the side, enhanced by some fresh chopped coriander.

Avocado Salad

Ingredients:

2 ripe avocados, peeled, pits removed, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Chopped fresh coriander leaves

Directions:

Place the avocados in a pretty serving bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add the coriander and blend well.

Pour the dressing over the avocados.

Serves four.

Soft Shells Tempura-Style

Ingredients:

1 package tempura batter mix
4 dressed soft-shell crabs
Peanut oil

Directions:

Prepare the tempura batter mix according to the directions on the package. Pat the crabs dry with paper towels. Dip each crab into the tempura batter.

Heat enough peanut oil in a wok, which will cover the crabs once they hit the pan. Heat the oil over high heat. Add the crabs and deep-fry until the coating clings to the crabs.

Serves four as an appetizer, two as an entr�e.

Asian-Style Soft-Shell Crabs

Ingredients:

4 dressed soft-shell crabs
About 1/4 cup peanut oil
2 fat garlic cloves, sliced
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 slice fresh ginger, about the size of a quarter, peeled and minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon soy sauce

Directions:

Dry the crabs well with paper towels. Heat about 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the crabs and saut� them for about three-four minutes on each side. Remove the crabs and keep warm.

Add the remaining oil to the pan. Add the garlic, scallions and ginger and stir-fry over high heat for about one minute. Add the wine and soy sauce. Stir well.

Place the crabs on a serving platter and top with the sauce.

Serves four as an appetizer, two as an entr�e.