Hooked on tradition

Until several years ago, I thought all Italian Americans enjoyed "The Feast of the Seven Fishes" on Christmas Eve.

After doing some research, I discovered that many Northern Italians prepare turkey, pasta made with wild mushrooms and other dishes.

But Italians throughout the majority of the country’s regions — and here in South Philadelphia — enjoy an array of fish and shellfish such as fried smelts, shrimp with garlic, mussels, scallops, and a delicate white fish such as flounder or sole.

Unfortunately, many of us do not have a loving mamma, nonna or zia to prepare this dinner for us. The solution is to do it ourselves.

I am not sure how many of you, unless you are Italian, want to prepare eel or baccal� any time soon. Eel makes its annual appearance on Ninth Street in time for Christmas Eve. You can find salt cod during the winter months, but it takes a few days of soaking, rinsing and soaking again before you cook it.

My husband Edward and I were fortunate enough to enjoy a seven-fishes dinner with Italian friends on two occasions. Fried smelts, which are Edward’s favorite, were on the menu, along with an assortment of fish and shellfish. What I loved most about this meal was the simplicity of each dish.

Although fish takes pride of place on the Christmas Eve table, vegetable antipasti, pasta and salads are the costars. Sometimes shellfish ends up in the pasta.

Here are fish recipes special enough for Christmas Eve.


Fried Smelts

Ingredients:

2 pounds smelts, cleaned
Flour for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Vegetable oil, for frying

Directions:

Pat the smelts dry with paper towels. Place the flour, kosher salt and pepper on a large plate. Blend well.

Heat enough vegetable oil in a large skillet to cover the smelts once they are in the pan. Fry quickly on both sides over medium-high heat, about a minute or so, or until they are golden brown. Drain the smelts on paper towels. You can place fried smelts on a cookie sheet and keep them warm in a 250-degree oven.

Serves six to eight.


Mussels with Chopped Tomatoes

Ingredients:

2 pounds mussels
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 fat cloves garlic, sliced
1 (28-ounce) can chopped tomatoes with their juice
1 cup dry white wine
Sprinkling of red pepper flakes
Chopped parsley

Directions:

Wash the mussels and remove any beards with kitchen scissors. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil on medium in a 5- or 6-quart Dutch oven. Add the garlic and saut� for a few minutes, until the garlic is translucent. Do not burn the garlic. Raise the heat to high, add the tomatoes with their juice and the wine. Stir to blend.

Add the mussels and red pepper flakes. Shake the pot vigorously and place a lid on top. Cook the mussels until they open, about five to eight minutes depending on their size. Discard any mussels that do not open. Scatter chopped parsley all over the mussels.

Serves six to eight.


Scallops in Green Sauce

Ingredients:

2 pounds sea scallops
4 tablespoons olive oil
5 fat cloves garlic, sliced
1 bunch fresh Italian parsley, leaves only, snipped with scissors
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 cup dry white wine

Directions:

Rinse the scallops and pat them dry with paper towels. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil on medium-high in a large skillet. Add the scallops and sear them a minute or two on each side. Remove the scallops with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the garlic and saut� until the garlic becomes translucent. Do not burn the garlic. Raise the heat a bit and add the parsley, kosher salt, pepper and wine. Stir the green sauce around with a wooden spoon. Add the scallops and heat through.

Serves six to eight.


Clams with Linguine

Ingredients:

2 pounds linguine
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 fat cloves garlic, sliced
Sprinkling of hot pepper flakes, optional
2 dozen littleneck clams
1/2 pound fresh chopped clams
1 bottle clam juice
1 cup dry white wine
Italian parsley leaves, snipped with scissors

Directions:

Cook the linguine according to package directions. While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil on medium-high in a 5- or 6-quart Dutch oven. Add the garlic and saut� until the garlic becomes translucent. Do not burn the garlic. Add the hot pepper flakes, if using.

Add the littleneck clams, chopped clams, clam juice and white wine. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and cover the pot. Shake the pot vigorously and simmer until the clams open, discarding any clams that do not open. Add the chopped parsley.

Drain the linguine and evenly divide it between two deep, warm bowls. Add the clam sauce and serve.

Serves six to eight.

Note from Phyllis: If the clam sauce appears a bit dry, add more white wine and olive oil.


Cauliflower and Fennel Salad

Ingredients:

1 large head cauliflower, cut into fleurettes
1 large fennel bulb, rinsed and sliced
1 pound pitted olives of your choice
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook for two to three minutes. Drain and immediately run cold water all over the cauliflower. Drain well. Chill the cauliflower.

Place the cauliflower in a pretty serving bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and toss well.

Serves six.

Note from Phyllis: Recipe can easily be doubled.


Fillet of Sole

Ingredients:

2 pounds sole or flounder fillet
1 stick butter, melted
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tablespoons olive oil
Italian parsley leaves, snipped with scissors
Handful of sliced almonds

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Wipe the fish with paper towels. Place in a pan large enough to hold it or use two pans. Top with the melted butter, kosher salt, pepper and Hungarian paprika. Bake for 10-15 minutes. Check for doneness. Fish should flake easily with a fork. Do not overcook the fish.

While the fish cooks, heat the olive oil on medium-high in a skillet. Add the parsley and almonds and saut� until the parsley is heated through. Keep on a low heat as the fish cooks.

Remove the fish to a pretty serving platter. Top with the parsley and almond mixture. Serve with lemon wedges if you wish.

Serves six to eight.

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Jane Kiefer
Jane Kiefer, a seasoned journalist with a rich background in digital media strategies, leads South Philly Review as its Editor-in-Chief. Originally hailing from Seattle, Jane combines her outsider perspective with a profound respect for South Philly's vibrant community, bringing fresh insights and innovative storytelling to the newspaper.