The veal deal

Two weeks ago, I dined at Valentino on the Square, where chef John Burke prepared a veal dish that was downright delicious. He pounded thin three pieces of top-quality veal, laid them flat, placed a slice of prosciutto di Parma on top and added a thin slice of fresh mozzarella. The chef then rolled up the veal and pan-roasted it. The sauce was a natural reduction of pan juices, a bit of wine and freshly chopped plum tomatoes.

Marcella Hazan has written about veal bundles in three of her cookbooks. Fagottini di vitello leccabaffi are little veal bundles with anchovies and cheese. The recipe is from her first book, The Classic Italian Cookbook, which was first published in 1976. Ten years later, Hazan gave us a new recipe for veal bundles: bracioline di vitello con l’agnello, which are stuffed with lamb and served with polenta. This recipe is found in Marcella’s Italian Kitchen.

Hazan obviously loves veal bundles because she gives several recipes for them in her 1997 book, Marcella Cucina.

Involtini di vitello con i porri e il vino blanco are veal bundles with leeks and white wine, which is right up my alley because I love leeks.

Although it is sometimes difficult to recreate a restaurant dinner at home, Hazan’s recipes are easy to follow. Veal bundles are perfect winter comfort food. Side dishes cry out for simplicity, such as roasted potatoes or polenta and a green of choice like spinach or escarole.

At Valentino on the Square, I enjoyed my veal bundles with potatoes au gratin and tiny crescent-shaped slices of quickly saut�ed seedless zucchini.

Here are recipes for veal bundles from Marcella Hazan.

Veal Bundles with Anchovies and Cheese

Ingredients:

5 tablespoons butter
8 anchovies
1/4 cup chopped parsley
6 tablespoons canned tomatoes, drained, seeds removed
Freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 pounds veal scaloppini, very thinly sliced, pounded flat
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 ounces mozzarella, preferably smoked
1/2 cup flour, spread on a dish
1 cup dry Marsala

Directions:

Put 2 tablespoons of butter and the anchovies in a small saucepan and, over very low heat, mash the anchovies to a pulp with a fork.

Add the chopped parsley, tomatoes and pepper, turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until the tomato thickens into sauce.

Lay the veal flat, sprinkle with salt, spread the sauce over the veal and cover with a layer of cheese. Roll up the veal, push the ends in and truss tightly with butcher twine, tying the string around the rolls and over the ends.

In a skillet large enough to accommodate the veal bundles, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat. Roll the veal bundles lightly in the flour, shaking off the excess. Add them to the skillet and brown on all sides for about two minutes. When the meat is well browned, add the Marsala and turn the heat to high. Turn the veal bundles and scrape up any browning residue in the pan. Cook for two to three minutes, stirring constantly, until the wine and other cooking juices have turned into a creamy sauce.

Serves six.

Note from Phyllis: You can use two skillets if you do not have one large enough to cook all the veal bundles. Don’t have butcher twine? Secure each bundle with toothpicks. Any dry white wine can be used in place of Marsala.

Veal Rolls Stuffed with Lamb

Ingredients:

6 ounces boned lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 tablespoons onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 pounds veal scaloppini, pounded very thin
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2/3 cup dry white wine
2/3 cup canned Italian peeled tomatoes, drained and finely chopped

Directions:

Place the lamb in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the onion, parsley and olive oil. Process to a creamy consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Lay the veal flat and spread the lamb mixture evenly over each slice. Roll each slice into a bundle and secure with toothpicks.

Place the butter and vegetable oil in a large skillet. Melt over high heat. Add the veal bundles and brown them on all sides for about two to three minutes. Transfer them to a platter using a slotted spoon.

Add the wine and tomatoes and simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time.

Return the veal bundles to the pan and turn them in the sauce. Turn the heat very low, cover the pan and cook for one minute. Remove to a warm platter and serve at once.

Serves six.

Veal Rolls with Leeks and White Wine

Ingredients:

1 pound veal scaloppini, pounded thin
2 large leeks, green removed, sliced lengthwise, thoroughly washed
Salt
2/3 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, whittled into slivers with a peeler
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup flour, spread on a plate
1/2 cup dry white wine

Directions:

Trim the veal into rectangles, 3 or 4 inches on one side and 5 to 6 inches on the other.

Cook the leeks in boiling water until very soft, about 30 minutes. Drain thoroughly.

Lay the veal on a work surface and cover each with a layer of leeks. Top with a few slivers of cheese. Add a little salt and black pepper. Roll up each veal bundle and fasten with a toothpick, inserting it lengthwise so that it lies parallel to the roll.

Place the butter and oil in a large skillet. Melt over medium-high heat. Dust each veal bundle in flour, shaking off the excess. Add them to the pan, turn the heat to high and cook for about five to six minutes, turning them on all sides.

Transfer the veal bundles to a plate using a slotted spoon. Add the wine to the pan, turn heat to high and scrape loose the cooking residue with a wooden spoon. Boil down the wine to about half of its original volume.

Return the veal bundles to the pan, turn them over in the sauce and cook for about one minute. Transfer the veal bundles to a warm platter and serve.

Serves four.