Go mild for lamb

Easter, the holiest day on the Christian calendar, arrives early this year. Lamb is the focal point of Easter dinner for many Christians around the world. My Italian and Greek friends always enjoy lamb for Easter dinner.

I am still surprised to discover that many people shy away from preparing lamb at home. They would rather tuck into rack of lamb or hearty lamb shanks at a restaurant. A number of people tell me they don’t like the lamb "smell" that permeates their kitchen. This aroma is caused by too much fat on the lamb, which must be trimmed by a reputable butcher.

The lamb I buy comes from New Zealand. I have asked a number of butchers about American lamb and New Zealand lamb. They have told me the imported variety is fresher and has the milder flavor Americans prefer.

The biggest mistake anyone makes is to overcook lamb, especially when roasting rack of lamb, leg of lamb or simple grilled lamb chops. Lamb shanks, which have become as popular as osso buco (veal shanks) in restaurants, are braised and finished with stock and wine in the oven. Braised meat cooks longer and is tender and juicy.

When you shop for lamb, you will find that loin chops, rib chops and rack of lamb are the most expensive cuts. Leg of lamb, even the boneless variety, lamb for stew and shoulder chops are more economical.

Fresh herbs play an integral part in preparing lamb. Rosemary is traditional, but don’t forget the mint. Mint marries well with lamb and is delicious when mixed with fresh spring peas. Fava beans are in season now and I can’t think of a better vegetable to serve with lamb.

Here are my recipes for a delicious Easter lamb dinner.

Simple Rack of Lamb

Ingredients:

2 racks New Zealand lamb, chine bone removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Dijon mustard
Sprigs of fresh rosemary

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.

Bring the racks of lamb to room temperature. Set them in two shallow roasting pans. Sprinkle on the kosher salt and black pepper. Using a spoon or small paintbrush, coat the lamb with Dijon mustard. Remove the rosemary leaves from the stems. Sprinkle them all over the racks of lamb.

Roast for 15 to 20 minutes. Check for doneness after 15 minutes. The lamb should be rare. If you prefer medium rare, roast the racks for another five to 10 minutes.

Braised Lamb Shanks

Ingredients:

4 meaty lamb shanks
Olive oil
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1 heaping tablespoon tomato paste
1 (22-ounce) package mushroom or vegetable stock
1 cup dry red wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Wipe the lamb shanks with paper towels. Heat enough olive oil on medium-high to lightly coat the bottom of a heavy 5-quart pot. Place the lamb shanks in the oil and sear a few minutes on each side, using tongs to turn them. Drain the shanks on paper towels and set aside.

Add the onions, carrots and celery to the pot. Using a wooden spoon, sauté the vegetables until they are slightly translucent, coating them well with the brown bits that have stuck to the bottom of the pan. Add the tomato paste and blend well.

Place the lamb shanks back into the pot. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Add the stock and wine to the pot and bring to a boil. Remove the pot from heat and cover.

Place the pot in the oven and braise meat for two hours, or until it is quite tender and easily falls from the bone.

Serves four.

Note from Phyllis: In Greek recipes, white wine is used along with lemon juice. I have eaten braised lamb shanks that have had baby artichokes added to them for the last hour of cooking time. You will need the juice of two large lemons if you prepare lamb shanks Greek style.

Shoulder Lamb Chops with Fresh Tomato Sauce

Ingredients:

4 meaty shoulder lamb chops
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Olive oil
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes with their juice
2 fat bay leaves

Directions:

Sprinkle the lamb chops with kosher salt and pepper. Set aside.

In a large heavy skillet, heat enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan on medium-high. Add the lamb chops and sauté a few minutes on each side. Remove the chops to a platter, add the onion and sauté just until the onion is translucent, about three to five minutes.

Return the lamb chops to the pan, add the diced tomatoes with their juice and the bay leaves. Cover the pan, lower the heat to a medium simmer and cook for about one hour.

Serves four.

Grilled Rib or Loin Lamb Chops

Ingredients:

8 rib or loin lamb chops
1 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 fat cloves of garlic, sliced
2 large sprigs of fresh rosemary

Directions:

Place the lamb chops in a large Ziploc bag or in a baking dish large enough to accommodate the lamb chops. Add the olive oil, kosher salt, black pepper, garlic and rosemary leaves from two large sprigs of rosemary. Blend the ingredients well.

Place in the refrigerator to marinate overnight. Or, you can marinate the lamb chops early in the morning.

Remove the lamb chops from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature. Using an indoor electric grill, grill the lamb chops two to three minutes on each side for rare lamb. Check for doneness as all indoor grills have different temperatures. If the lamb is still too rare, grill a minute or two.

Serves four.

Note from Phyllis: I finally purchased a large indoor grill and find it is the next best thing to grilling outdoors. I no longer set off the smoke alarm and find cleanup a breeze. All I do is wipe down the grill with paper towels and it is ready to use again. �