Johnny Brenda’s

Fishtown has been hailed as Philly’s newest up-and-coming neighborhood. Young singles and couples are purchasing and renovating homes there. Bohemian storefronts dot the streets and banners proclaiming "Welcome to Fishtown" flutter in the breeze.

It was only a matter of time before this neighborhood, which was christened "Fishtown" by Charles Dickens during a U.S. lecture tour, would see new life. Old City and nearby Northern Liberties already are filled with refurbished commercial and residential properties. I wondered if I could find a restaurant that represented Fishtown’s renaissance.

I did. It is called Johnny Brenda’s, owned by the same people who gave us Standard Tap in Northern Liberties. That tavern wowed me when it opened five years ago. Where else could you find a neighborhood taproom that serves up duck confit at $7 a pop?

Edward and I drove north along the Delaware River until we came to Frankford Avenue. Johnny Brenda’s is a corner spot and was easy to find.

The restaurant, housed in a formerly rundown bar, was cleaned up, the tin ceiling painted a warm red and the bar polished up. A pool table stands in the center of the room and the jukebox serenaded us a bit too loudly. Still, Edward and I were able to hear each other and we struck up a conversation with a couple who moved to the area a few years ago. They’re regulars at Johnny Brenda’s.

The bartender, who bore an uncanny resemblance to Susan Sarandon, mixed us martinis ($6) and we discussed the blackboard menu. Duck confit was not on the bill of fare, but a number of the items made me hungry. The most expensive dish is $13.

We began dinner with fried oysters ($6.50) and mushroom cigars ($4.50). The blackboard indicated the oysters were cultivated in Prince Edward Island, whose mussels are the best you can find. We received six or seven plump oysters dipped in seasoned crumbs and deep-fried to a golden-brown. They were crispy and totally free of grease. The tartar sauce was so good, I think it was homemade. Some bits of crisp lettuce were included, so I dunked them in the sauce and enjoyed. You also can order Prince Edward Island oysters raw on the half-shell.

Cigars are a savory appetizer from Morocco. They are made with phyllo and can be stuffed with any number of ingredients. Johnny Brenda’s uses a sauté of wild mushrooms and fresh spinach, a delicious combination. Two good-sized cigars came with the order, along with a remoulade-like dipping sauce.

The test of any neighborhood restaurant is the Caesar salad. Many places just pour bottled dressing on top of romaine leaves and shake on ersatz Parmesan from the green can. Edward and I shared the Caesar ($6), which was large enough for two, with fresh cool hearts of crisp romaine on an oval plate. It was topped with homemade dressing, which, when tossed, clung to the leaves. It was light, tasty and creamy, just like Caesar dressing should be. The salad was topped with shards of Parmesan that added a slightly salty flavor.

While we were enjoying our salad, one of the owners came by to chat with us. He knew the couple next to us and all they could talk about was how much they liked the octopus. An order was carried past us and we wanted to try it. The owner, who has traveled through Europe, explained that fresh octopus is important. It must be simmered for a few hours and then marinated. He didn’t tell us about the marinade, but in parts of Italy and throughout Greece, red wine and red-wine vinegar is used. We were not disappointed. The generous portion of octopus ($8) was tender and not one bit chewy. Red wine was definitely used in the dish and it imparted a slightly acidic flavor that Edward and I both liked.

Johnny Brenda’s also offers an array of sandwiches, including authentic flank steak ($8.50), which has gained in popularity within the past few years. The beef was a bit overcooked to our taste. It was sliced thin and served on fresh French bread. Edward and I thought the portion was skimpy. The shoestring fries, which were not greasy, were served cool.

Since Johnny Brenda’s is among the new breed of neighborhood taverns, it was not surprising to see Greek, Moroccan, American, Middle Eastern and Italian fare on the same menu. Linguine with clams ($13) is one of my favorite pasta dishes when it is prepared properly. So many places just heat up a can of clam sauce and dump it on pasta. The linguine at Johnny Brenda’s tasted homemade and was a bit finer than the regular variety. It was cooked al dente and arrived piping hot, surrounded by a dozen perfectly steamed tender littleneck clams. The sauce was light with the right touch of garlic, white wine, olive oil and peperoncino – the tiny hot pepper flakes that are classic in this dish. My dinner came with fresh French bread.

A number of microbrews are on tap at Johnny Brenda’s and Pennsylvania beers take pride of place. Edward and I shared a pint of Yard’s Pale Ale ($3), which has a dry crisp flavor.

Johnny Brenda’s is another example of the funky neighborhood taverns and pubs that have been popping up ever since Standard Tap set the bar. You can order lamb kebobs, an eggplant Parmesan sandwich, a bowl of homemade Manhattan clam chowder or the fish of the day. Except for the flank steak, everything here was first rate.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Johnny Brenda’s.

Johnny Brenda’s
1201 Frankford Ave. (at Girard)
215-739-9684
Credit cards accepted
Not wheelchair-accessible
Open for lunch and dinner seven days