Can-do tomatoes

Every year around this time I wait and hunger for the first appearance of red, ripe Jersey and Lancaster County tomatoes. They usually show up in late June or early July, about the time blueberry farmers in Hammonton, N.J., ship their sweet fruits to local markets.

A friend who is a novice cook asked me whether canned tomatoes are as good as summertime fresh ones. Nothing can truly replace a hefty slice of sweet, fresh tomato topped with a sprinkling of kosher salt. Learning about top-quality canned tomatoes is important because there are many choices on your supermarket shelf. The canned variety can be used in any number of recipes that call for fresh tomatoes.

Canned San Marzano tomatoes, imported from Italy, are always my first choice. They are firm to the touch and deep red. They are packed whole so I simply use my hands to crush them into a bowl, but I also keep cans of diced tomatoes and crushed tomatoes in my pantry. Diced tomatoes are just that; they are cut into small cubes and canned with their juice. Read the label when buying diced tomatoes. Some have sugar or high-fructose corn syrup added, so beware. The same is true for crushed tomatoes.

My friend Fran Simon, a marvelous cook who grew up in a large Italian family in Brooklyn, N.Y., told me Cento offers chef’s cut tomatoes, which are more like long strips than cubes. She told me they cook down more evenly when making gravy and can be used in any number of recipes that call for fresh tomatoes. She gave me a taste of her Sunday pork gravy, which she made with country-style spareribs. She cooked the gravy for several hours, added homegrown basil and oregano and served it over rigatoni. She used a combination of crushed and chef’s cut tomatoes. The dish was so unusual – I have never tasted pork gravy before – that I vow to give you the recipe in an upcoming column.

Whether I use strips or cubes, top-quality canned tomatoes work well when I get hungry for a summer dish, but have to wait before the Jersey and Lancaster County tomatoes make their yearly debut.

Here are recipes that make fine use of canned tomatoes.

Spaghetti with Raw Tomato Sauce

Ingredients:

1 (28-ounce) can diced or chef’s cut tomatoes with their juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large scallions, with some green, sliced, or 1 small red onion, diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 pound spaghetti cooked al dente, according to package directions

Directions:

Place the tomatoes in a colander and press them gently with the back of a small spoon. You want to release as much liquid as you can.

Once the tomatoes have been well drained, place them in a medium-size non-aluminum bowl. Glass or stainless steel are good because the acid in tomatoes reacts with aluminum, turning them black. Add the remaining ingredients and toss well.

Serves four.

Tomato and Spinach Soup

Ingredients:

1 (8-ounce) bag baby spinach leaves
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 (28-ounce) can imported San Marzano tomatoes
2 (15-ounce) cans chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup half-and-half
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Juice of 1/2 lemon

Directions:

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the spinach and sauté for a few minutes, just until the leaves begin to wilt. Remove the saucepan from the heat.

Break up the tomatoes using your hands and add them to the pot. Add the juice from the tomatoes as well. Heat through for about five minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the broth and half-and-half. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the lemon juice and stir to blend. Heat the soup and serve.

Serves six.

Note from Phyllis: This soup is also delicious served cold.

Mostaccioli with Fresh Basil and Mozzarella

(Mostaccioli alla Caprese) from Lidia’s Italian-American Kitchen by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich

Ingredients:

Salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling over the finished pasta if you like
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 (35-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, seeded and crushed
1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper
1 pound mostaccioli or penne pasta
1 pound bocconcini (bite-size fresh mozzarella, cut in half)
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 cup shredded fresh basil leaves

Directions:

Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Scatter the garlic over the oil and cook, shaking the pan, until golden brown, about two minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and crushed red pepper. Season lightly with salt, bring to a boil; lower the heat so the sauce is at a lively simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is lightly reduced, about 10 minutes.

While the sauce is simmering, stir the penne into the boiling water. Return to a boil, stirring frequently. Cook the pasta, semi-covered, stirring occasionally until done, about 10 to 12 minutes.�

If the skillet is large enough to accommodate the sauce and pasta, fish the pasta out with a large wire skimmer and drop it directly into the sauce in the skillet. If not, drain the pasta, return it to the pot and pour in the sauce. Bring the sauce and pasta to a boil, stirring to coat the pasta with sauce. Check the seasoning, adding salt and crushed red pepper if necessary.

Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the mozzarella, grated cheese and basil.

Serve immediately in warm bowls.

Serves six.

>Note from Phyllis: Bastianich also gives directions for making this sauce with fresh tomatoes in season. She uses 3 cups of ripe, diced summer tomatoes. I have made this dish using spaghetti and linguine and both work well. This is a quick and refreshingly simple sauce that makes use of ingredients such as fresh basil and mozzarella that I always have in my summer refrigerator. Small mozzarella balls can be found in most supermarkets, specialty stores, Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s.