Fall feasts

The first day of autumn is today and it begins my favorite time of year. There’s a crispness in the air and the trees are preparing to dazzle us with splashes of color.

These are the days when balmy breezes can produce a day full of heat and humidity, only to discover an overnight cold front has zipped through, bringing with it cooler temperatures. But, while taking a recent stroll through the Reading Terminal Market, I got some ideas for an early autumn dinner.

I am a fall and winter cook. I love soups, stews and roasts. I enjoy preparing hearty salads and simple fruit desserts. The lack of rain has meant the Pennsylvania apple and pear harvest will be a bit late this year.

Since we are still waiting for autumn fruits to arrive, ice cream and good store-bought cookies keep me happy at dessert time.

Our early autumn dinner begins with a salad of watercress, sweet peppers and mushrooms. Watercress has a marvelously peppery flavor and marries well with an assortment of salad ingredients. You can substitute arugula for the watercress. I like to dress this salad with a mustard vinaigrette made with finely minced shallots. Serve it with sourdough bread or a baguette.

A good roast, such as a filet of beef or standing rib, is expensive, but you have no waste and the leftovers can turn up in sandwiches and salads. Still, there are good economy cuts, which would fill the bill nicely. I like an eye roast, skirt steak or flank steak.

Since I’ve yet to spot pumpkins and squash, I turn to year-round vegetables for side dishes. I once tried a Julia Child recipe, which simply grated a few zucchini in butter and olive oil with the addition of seasonings and cream. I also like to sauté carrots in the same manner.

As for the wine, a Pinot Noir or Rioja from Spain will enhance the beef, as would a Cabernet Sauvignon or Chianti.

Watercress Salad

Ingredients:

2 bunches of watercress, thoroughly washed and stemmed
1 large red, yellow and orange pepper, each seeded and sliced
1 pound mixed mushrooms, such as white button, shiitake and cremini, wiped clean and sliced
1/2 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 small shallot, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Place all the salad ingredients in a large bowl and toss well.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice. Add the mustard and shallots and blend well. Add the salt and pepper to taste and blend well once again. Taste and correct for seasoning.

Pour the dressing over the salad and toss well.

Serves four to six.

Note from Phyllis: I like adding shallots to any number of recipes. They are a cross between an onion and garlic and have a marvelous flavor. Place them in the freezer for about five minutes or so before peeling and mincing. It will help prevent your eyes from welling up.

Roast Eye Round

Ingredients:

1 (3-pound) top-quality eye round
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup dry red wine

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 500.

Wipe the eye round with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place in a shallow roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes for rare; roast another 15 minutes if medium-rare is desired.

Remove from the oven and place the roast on a warm serving platter. Tent with foil while you deglaze the pan. Place the roasting pan on the stove over high. Add the red wine and, using a wooden spoon, stir the contents around in the pan, loosening the brown bits on the bottom. Add a tablespoon of butter for a richer flavor, if desired. Pour the sauce into a warm gravy boat.

Thinly slice the eye round and pass the sauce.

Serves six.

Note from Phyllis: Although authentic flank steak is no longer the bargain it used to be, you can substitute it in this recipe. You can also use skirt steak, which is sometimes called hanger steak. Instead of roasting, I would broil these cuts. For rare beef, simply get your broiler really hot and broil for about 10 minutes.

Grated Zucchini in Cream

Ingredients:

4 long narrow zucchini, washed and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup heavy cream

Directions:

After you have grated the zucchini, wrap them in paper towels to squeeze out as much water as possible.

Heat the butter and olive oil over medium in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the zucchini and sauté for a few minutes. Do not overcook. Add salt and pepper to taste. Lower the heat to simmer and add the cream. Stir well. Add a bit more cream, if desired.

Serves four.

Note from Phyllis: I have made this dish using half-and-half and it works well.

Carrots in Cream

Ingredients:

1 pound carrots, scraped clean and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup heavy cream
Snips of fresh dill

Directions:

Heat the butter and olive oil over medium in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the carrots and sauté for about five minutes. Add the salt and pepper. Sauté for another minute. Lower the heat to simmer and add the cream. Blend well. Add fresh dill and heat through.

Serves four.