Deuce

I never liked the word "gentrification." It always reminds me of the snooty rich British aristocracy, living on thousands of acres in estates bedecked with artwork and antiques.

But this term is used by urban planners who study an up-and-coming neighborhood and predict big things. For more than 20 years, we have been hearing about the "gentrification" of Northern Liberties. Today, the neighborhood is jumping. Blocks and blocks of new condo construction, as well as shops and restaurants, are being built and more are on the architects’ drawing boards. The newest area is Liberties Walk, a combination apartment/condo/restaurant space on North Second Street. It is home to Deuce, a restaurant that opened about two months ago.

Deuce has a spacious outdoor patio that includes a special menu for neighborhood pooches to dine with their owners. Inside is a warm, romantic and cozy space with a moderately priced menu. The walls are bright red, the chairs are a comfortable soft black leather. A number of patrons were enjoying a drink at the bar when Edward and I arrived at about 6:30 p.m. The sounds of Frank Sinatra serenaded the crowd all evening with romantic standards courtesy of the Gershwins and Cole Porter.

The chef is Scott Schroeder, who honed his skills at Pasion! and Brasserie Perrier. He is so finicky about his ingredients, he makes his own ketchup, mayonnaise and an unusually delicious applesauce. But I am getting ahead of myself.

We settled in and sipped well-made martinis ($7.50) and discussed the menu. Our server made suggestions and pointed out the specials listed on the blackboard.

"Most people share a few dishes," she said. "The mussels are really good and you must try the ham and cheese sandwich."

We took her advice and shared a succession of dishes. Every item on the menu intrigued me.

We began our delightful dinner with cheesesteak spring rolls ($7). Schroeder grilled strips of seasoned beef, added a bit of Swiss and encased this treat in a light spring roll wrapper. It was quick fried to a crispy golden brown. The platter contained a ramekin of homemade ketchup, mustard and mayo, which I really liked. It had a marvelous flavor and texture. There were bits of chopped onion or shallot, giving it a bit of a crunch.

Our server told us mussels ($9) were a special, but became so popular Schroeder added them to the menu. He uses immaculately clean Prince Edward Island mussels. They were steamed in a Belgian wheat beer with sautéed leeks. A small loaf of crusty French bread arrived for dipping.

Next up was a hearts of romaine salad ($7), which was thoughtfully split in the kitchen. Each plate contained a large heart of fresh, cool, crisp romaine. The salad had an unusual vinaigrette laced with the right touch of creamy ricotta and black peppercorns. This is a knife-and-fork salad and was so tasty, I vowed to try to recreate it at home. We also received an uncommonly good "crouton," which is French for garlic bread. It was crispy grilled and topped with butter, olive oil and chopped fresh garlic.

At this point, Schroeder began to make his way through the dining room. He chatted with each customer and asked how we liked the salad and he saw our clean plates. Edward told him the garlic bread was so good he should offer it to all his patrons.

Our server told us the ham and cheese sandwich ($9) is big enough for two. She was right all evening so we shared it to save room for dessert. A ham and cheese is just a ham and cheese, but when a creative chef uses first-rate ingredients it becomes special. Schroeder told us he buys his ham from an Amish farmer in Lebanon. It was akin to the type of bacon seen in Ireland and served in Irish restaurants. It has a marvelously smoky flavor and is similar to Canadian bacon. The Swiss also comes from the same Amish farmer. The ingredients were grilled together so the cheese melted before it was piled high on a fresh crusty chiabatta roll. One bite made the taste buds soar. Forget anything you’ve ever thought about ham and cheese, this one was superb.

Although fries come with sandwiches, we noticed potato latkes on the menu. We asked if our server could substitute latkes for the fries.

"I’m sure we can but I will check," she said.

There is nothing better than a freshly made, piping hot potato pancake. We received two made-from-scratch latkes, which were crisp and golden brown outside and slightly creamy inside.

The homemade applesauce used tart Granny Smith apples and a secret ingredient. One taste and I said, "horseradish." I know some German recipes that call for a touch of horseradish, especially if served with pork. It provided a tasty kick.

During dinner we shared a pint of Yard’s lager ($4) made at nearby Yard’s Brewery.

Edward and I looked forward to dessert ($4). Schroeder takes a hefty slice of homemade poundcake, which he dips in buttermilk and sautés like French toast. While the cake is warm, it is topped with fresh peaches laced with a bit of cinnamon and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. This is an example of how something so simple can be so delicious.

Service was excellent throughout the meal. Our server and another woman took care of the patrons in the dining room.

Deuce is a welcome addition to ever-expanding Northern Liberties and we plan another visit.

Three tips of the toque to Deuce.

Deuce
1040 N. Second St.
215-413-3822
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible