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The past year has been a whirlwind. I am trying to catch my culinary breath because it seems every time I checked my e-mail or newspaper a new place opened.
It was a big year for ethnic restaurants with Mexican, Belgian, Italian and New American topping the list. The following were among my favorites this year, though they are in no particular order and represent a plethora of cuisines and prices. (A number of them are BYOB.)
Passyunk Avenue has seen a burst of new eateries, including Clementine’s Bistro, chef Robert Patton’s delightful spot where French, Spanish and Italian fare share the menu. Tre Scalini moved into new digs as well and Franca DiRenzo is still in the kitchen making her particular brand of culinary magic. Le Virtu opened in the autumn with chef Luciana Spurio offering beautifully crafted and delicious dishes from her native Abruzzo.
Mission Grill tempted me with American fare with a nod to the Southwest. Although it has a liquor license, wines are half-price during Sunday dinner. Yello’bar, serving up soups, salads, sandwiches and platters, proved to be a moderately priced place for families.
Philadelphia has two new Belgian restaurants in two different neighborhoods. Tom Peters and Fergus "Fergie" Carey opened The Belgian Tavern in Fairmount where big pots of mussels, homemade french fries, soups, salads and sandwiches are served in a family atmosphere. Belgian-born chef Bernard Dehaene opened Zot last winter. I enjoyed an authentic meal there, and I’m still dreaming of the warm salads and array of fish and beef in which you choose the appropriate sauce from a list. There were more than a dozen ways to enjoy mussels at Zot.
I dined alone at Tria near the theater district. It is a beer and wine bar where patrons create their dinner from appetizers and salads.
Chick’s Caf� & Wine Bar was a real favorite because chef Jim Piano knows how to "play" with ingredients. As I said in my review, "I am still dreaming of his cauliflower gratin."
Some of the finest Mexican fare can be savored at Las Bugambilias, which opened last fall on the South Street site of Primavera. Chef Carlos Molina has a fine way with fish, beef, tasty appetizers and hearty soups. His wife, Michelle Zimmerman, is the pastry chef.
Chef Al Paris, who lives in South Philly with his wife and kids, opened Pat Bombino’s at Ninth and Catharine streets. Hearty, rustic, authentic cucina is served at this BYOB. Chef Joe Tucker, who was born and raised in South Philly, decided to launch a second Joe Pesce on Walnut Street in the theater district. I particularly liked the huge mound of fried calamari with chunky homemade marinara.
Nationally celebrated chef Marc Vetri opened Osteria last winter, where chef Jeffrey Michaud turns out rustic Italian fare, including some of the best pizza I have ever tasted. Salads, homemade pastas and entrees also are on the menu. Prices are high, but it is worth a visit.
My friend Sunny introduced me to the flavors and textures of Korean food at Giwa, a casual and moderately priced eatery on the 1500 block of Sansom Street. The food is marvelous and the place obviously has a loyal following. It is always filled whenever I walk by.
Chef Cary Neff wowed me with Coquette, his French bistro in Queen Village. The look and cuisine are pure Paris. From the raw bar to roast chicken, you should not miss dining at Coquette.
I traveled to the Philippines for my first taste of this multicultural cuisine at Cebu Restaurant & Bar on Chestnut Street. Next door is Triumph Brewing Company for moderately priced handcrafted beers, as well as a moderately priced menu.
Silk City finally reopened after renovations. It’s bright and shiny and features upscale diner food, like duck spring rolls, meatloaf, mashed potatoes and fresh fish.
Chef Olivier de Saint Martin christened Zinc on the site of La Boheme. Since he was born in Champagne, I instantly knew his cuisine would be heavenly. It also was moderately priced.
Those of us who savored Davide and Kathryn Faenza’s marvelous fare at L’Angolo waited for the husband and wife team to open Salento, a BYOB on Walnut Street. Franco’s Trattoria graced Kelly Drive, offering fine Italian cucina with chef Luca Sena Jr. in the kitchen.
The delightful Sabrina’s, a mainstay in the Italian Market for years, opened the BYOB Sabrina’s Caf� and Spencer’s Too in Fairmount with great breakfasts and brunches. It’s also open for dinner.
The Mexican Post became part of the Ben Franklin Parkway, offering very moderately priced fare.
I always like dining in unusual spaces and was delighted to see Gardenia in the beautiful Art Alliance Building, steps from Rittenhouse Square. A BYOB, it serves lunch and weekend brunch.
Supper represents the trend where patrons build their own tasting menu. Although New York City restaurants such as Craft have been offering this for quite a while, it has finally hit Philly. I am not talking about tapas-style places where people order eight little plates and share. Mitch and Jennifer Prensky have a fine establishment, but I would like to see a five-course tasting menu with wines at about $60 per person. If the entr�e is on its way out — as I think it is — we will see more places like Supper. In fact, I would like to see more chefs offering a tasting menu in their restaurants.
