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As soon as my cousin Carl returned from a lengthy cruise to South America, I told him to keep Monday night free so we could dine at Le Bar Lyonnais. It is inconceivable I have never reviewed Chef Georges Perrier’s marvelous gem one flight down from Le Bec-Fin.
I selected a Monday night because patrons can bring their own wine. I also was curious to see if people dine out on Monday. I think it is the perfect night to do so — along with Thursday — since fresh ingredients have arrived to start the week.
Le Bar Lyonnais is famous for its chic intimate bar and the tasty french fare developed from Chef Perrier’s repertoire of masterful recipes.
We settled into a granite-topped table set with crisp linen napkins. Our server placed the Prosecco I toted along into an ice bucket as Carl and I talked about Chile and Argentina. An assistant waiter brought us warm French bread, a small bowl of harissa — the slightly spicy hot condiment from Tunisia — and several thin slices of French sausage.
Champagne flutes appeared, the Prosecco was poured and Carl and I saluted a fine evening. Prosecco is a sparkling wine from Italy and one that should be at the top of your to-buy list.
Chef’s selection of appetizers to share ($26) is a meal. Steak tartare is a dish I have not seen on a menu in what feels like eons. I adore it even more than the ubiquitous tuna version, which has been all the rage and chefs’ darling for the past decade. I have forgotten how luscious the steak is when it is prime-quality, chopped by hand, seasoned just so and mixed with a beaten egg and a hint of Dijon mustard. In short, it was a masterpiece, about six ounces or so fashioned into a round timbale. I could not get enough of it or the crispy "gaufrette" potatoes.
The plate also contained Perrier’s signature crab cake. Jumbo lump crab is mixed with puréed shrimp, which hold the cake together. It is seasoned, sautéed and topped with a creamy sherry-mustard sauce.
Four medium-size shrimp were done tempura-style. They were crispy and served with a simple soy sauce. Ground venison was used in the generous slice of terrine that came with a small mound of fresh microgreens. Venison is a very lean meat and I thought the paté was a bit dry.
There is always a risotto of the day. Squid risotto ($12 appetizer, $21 entrée) is a dish I have never tasted. Baby squid, with a sweet delicate flavor, were tucked into the well-executed risotto. It was neither gummy nor runny. Carl and I particularly enjoyed its texture. A small plate of chopped vegetables with harissa came with the dish.
For our main course, Carl ordered the "bouillabaisse" ($23) and I ordered duck confit cassoulette ($26). The classic fish stew from Provence can be made with any number of fish and shellfish. The traditional version contains fennel and Pernod, a licorice-flavored liqueur. As soon as our server placed the bowl on the table the aroma wafted into the air followed by the flavor of fennel and licorice as soon as I took one bite. Shrimp, mussels, salmon and a light white fish were used. Both Carl and I thought there was too much salmon. Saffron potatoes were included and imparted a heady flavor.
My duck was delicious. I received a small, about three-square-inche piece. Although it was perfectly cooked I thought the dish needed the addition of a sausage. The beans on the other hand were exceptional. Smoky bacon punched up the taste of the small white beans.
I also brought along a red Rhone so Carl and I could enjoy a glass of wine with dinner.
La Colombe coffee and an aromatic Earl Grey tea, both $3, announced it was time for dessert. For $12, you can enjoy four creations from pastry chef Rocco Lugrine, who is one of the best in town. Perrier hired him when Brasserie Perrier opened in 1987. Lugrine wowed everyone. He worked in San Francisco and traveled to learn more in Europe. He is now back at Le Bec-Fin and Le Bar Lyonnais.
We selected a luscious cheesecake with fresh fruit, a light lemony confection with raspberries, an outrageous dark chocolate mousse cake with dark chocolate cream between layers of flourless chocolate cake and chocolate-and-praline buttercream cake with Chantilly cream covered in a hazelnut dacquoise, my own favorite. Each slice was generous and three to four people could easily share this.
Service was about as professional as you can get. Several people were enjoying drinks at the bar, but no one arrived for dinner. Monday night is, indeed, a fine night to dine out. Book a table, select a bottle of wine and feast on a fine French meal.
Three tips of the toque to Le Bar Lyonnais.
Le Bar Lyonnais
1523 Walnut St.
215-567-1000
