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More than a year and a half ago, I set out to find some of the city’s best burgers after sampling ones in South Philly, Center City and Northern Liberties. Some restaurants earned high marks because the chefs know how to grill a perfect burger.
I prefer my burger made with 80 percent ground chuck. When I bite into it, I want to taste the juices emitting from seasoned ground beef. The ratio of burger to bun is critical, as too much bread ruins the experience. I like an old-fashioned bun, with or without sesame seeds.
Burgers should be grilled medium-rare — anything else is a crime. Keeping it simple is my mantra, as the beef is the star of the show. Top quality cheddar cheese and perhaps a strip or two of crisp bacon add flavor.
I am not too fond of burgers made with a combination of ground short ribs, brisket and chuck because the texture is not right. Besides ground chuck, ground lamb can be turned into a terrific burger. One place does it right.
Some fancy restaurants go over the top when it comes to building burgers. Cooks will pile on anything from a fried egg to fancy overdressed salads. I still enjoy old-fashioned burgers the best. I am most happy when a half done kosher pickle spear is on the plate.
Devil’s Den, 1148 S. 11th St., gets my vote for top burger. Tell the server exactly how you want it prepared, and your wishes will be granted. The ratio of juicy beef to plain bun is perfect. Order it medium-rare, and it will arrive that way. I also liked the manner in which the tasty cheddar melted on the beef. I don’t like mustard or ketchup on a burger. At Devil’s Den, a tasty aioli is spread on the bun before the burger goes on. It is sloppy but uncommonly good. Sliced red ripe tomato makes it better. It can be ordered sans the aioli. Their fries are crisp and piping hot.
The lamb burger at Kennett, 848 S. Second St., is another favorite of mine. When I think of lamb, I immediately think of the eastern Mediterranean. The lamb is perfectly seasoned with harissa, the spicy condiment from Tunisia. It gives the burger a delicious kick.
Taproom on 19th, 2400 S. 19th St., does a simple grilled burger that is juicy and flavorful. It is topped with caramelized onions that impart a sweetness that changes the burger experience. I ordered them on the side. Their fries were also crisp and piping hot.
Jerry’s Bar in Northern Liberties also fared well in the how-to-make-one-fine-burger department. I liked it because the beef was seasoned and the bun did not overtake the beef.
Adding salt and pepper to ground beef is Cooking 101. Little more is needed to make a tasty burger. If the seasoning is off, it results in bland beef. I have had my share of these burgers within the past year and a half.
My best burger quest will continue. There are a number of places I want to visit. Bobby’s Burger Palace from celebrity chef Bobby Flay in University City and Cherry Hill has been open for a few years. I am curious about his upscale approach to fast food. I have avoided these restaurants because I am not a fan of chains, but a visit will help me with best burger criteria.
A burger with fries will never disappear from menus throughout the country. Restaurants whose focus is the All-American burger appear to be the latest food fad.
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