Caribou Café

170888971

Years ago, Broadway-bound musicals and plays used to “try out” in a few cities, especially in Philadelphia. Writers, actors and directors would work out the kinks before the New York City debut. This practice went the way of the ark, as previews are offered before the official opening night.

I often go to Manhattan to see a musical or play, but I have not seen one in the city for a number of years. “The Book of Mormon” has been on my must-see list since it swept the Tony Awards in 2011. I purchased tickets for a Saturday matinee at the Forrest Theatre. Was it funny? Yes, but not truly belly laugh funny like “South Park” or “The Simpsons.”

The show ended at 4:30 p.m, so it was too late for lunch and too early for dinner. Then I remembered Caribou Café had a bar menu on offer at off times.

I have eaten here on many occasions. Chef/owner Olivier Desaintmartin offers dishes from France’s 15 regions. Through the years I have enjoyed grilled hanger steak, wild salmon, a terrific quiche, perfect salads, chocolate mousse and tart tatin. It was time for a return visit.

The bi-level bistro has a long bar, with jazz playing over the sound system. There is outdoor seating as well. Caribou Café began to fill with theatergoers, including us.

A glass of French sauvignon blanc ($9.50) set the stage for my meal. Edward sipped a martini ($12) as we discussed the menu. I wanted to try new dishes, except for one, but I will get to that soon.

A flammenküche ($9) is a cross between a pizza and a tart. This treat from Alsace is prepared with a round, thin crepe that was placed on a pizza pan. It was topped with onions, bacon and creamy Boursin cheese. We sliced it into wedges and folded each piece over, New York City pizza-style, and enjoyed.

Salade maison ($13.50) was a mound of immaculately fresh mixed greens, red beets and haricots verts dressed in a tangy shallot-mustard vinaigrette. A toasted crouton, cut from a baguette, was spread with Bucheron, one of my favorite and pricey goat cheeses from France. This is a classic bistro dish one would find in restaurants throughout Paris.

I mentioned one dish I had to enjoy again. The onion soup at Caribou Café ($8) is the finest in town, but I had not eaten it in a number of years. Consistency is king here; it was as good as I remembered it to be. Homemade not-a-bit salty stock was laced with buttery caramelized onions, a crouton and a rich lid of piping hot and bubbly Gruyere cheese as the topping. This was perfection in a crock. I don’t like to fight with my food, but pulling the strands of hot cheese from the soup was a culinary joy.

A simple nine-ounce burger ($10.50) was grilled medium-rare and was well- seasoned. It was topped with a tomato remoulade and caramelized onions. I found the brioche bun to be a bit hard, but it was not sweet. Patrons get a choice of either a salad or french fries. Go for the hot and crisp fries.

Grilled ham and cheese was taken to the next level with a classic croquet monsieur ($9). Thinly-sliced delectable French ham was layered with Gruyere on buttered sliced brioche and grilled to perfection. Something so simple can be so satisfying. A choice of salad or fries comes with the sandwich.

A glass of Les Collines ($10) — a Cote du Rhones from France — drank well with our sandwiches.

I have interviewed Desaintmartin on numerous occasions. He is a stickler for fresh ingredients and lets them sing on the plate. He was not cooking at Caribou Café during our meal, yet the dishes were consistent with the ones he has prepared for me.

Four tips of the toque to Caribou Café. 

Caribou Café

1126 Walnut St.
215-625-9535
cariboucafe.com

170888971
170888871