Cedar Point Bar & Kitchen

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Two weeks ago, I happened upon Cedar Point Bar & Kitchen, a restaurant that opened about a year and a half ago in Fishtown. It has outdoor seating on a lovely deck where parents with young children were sharing the space with singles and couples. Edward and I decided to eat at the bar so we could watch the Phillies.

The bartender told us about happy hour specials, including half-price wings. She told me about her unique Negroni ($8 happy hour) that she prepares and ages in a wood cask. It was absolutely delicious. Edward sipped a glass of Shawnee porter ($4), and our evening began.

The eggplant dip ($7) was unusual because it was warm rather than cold. I make chopped eggplant — a staple in Greek and Middle Eastern restaurants — all the time. It needed a bit of pepping up, so some salt did help its flavor. I liked the long, crisp pita chips that added some crunch to the smooth dip.

Cedar Point’s meaty wings ($5.50 happy hour) imparted a spicy kick. The accompanying sauce did little to cool off the hot, lingering flavors. I asked for some blue cheese dressing ($1). The exceptional offering made at the restaurant provided the perfect foil for this appetizer.

I was disappointed in the root salad ($10). A large mountain of arugula was overdressed and a bit warm. Beets, celery root and carrots were included, and they, too, were warm. I think the salad would have fared better if it was served cold.

Although some patrons were eating chicken and waffles or a Cobb salad, I wanted a sandwich. Reubens are among my favorite. The fatty corned beef version I had at a New York Upper West Side deli set the standard. The focus of Cedar Point’s Reuben ($11) was unprocessed turkey breast that was a little salty. I liked the house-made sauerkraut with caraway seeds because they add flavor and texture, as well as a spread of Russian dressing. It was served on slightly grilled rye bread. Diners get a choice of either french fries or house-made chips with sandwiches. The uncommonly good chips were crisp and free of grease. All they required was a sprinkling of salt.

The burger ($13) arrived medium-rare on a soft bun. It was properly seared on the outside and juicy inside. A slice of red ripe tomato made me realize tomato season will soon be gone. The french fries were nicely seasoned with the right touch of salt.

Like our local tomatoes, peaches will soon disappear. A peach crisp ($8) was on the dessert list, so I wanted to conclude dinner with something sweet. A deep hot bowl was filled with slightly under-ripe sliced peaches topped with a streusel-like topping and a heaping scoop of rich vanilla ice cream.

Cedar Point was filled indoors and outside during our dinner. The menu is moderately priced, and there are a number of vegetarian options. Service was excellent, and we did not have to wait long between courses.

Restaurants like Cedar Point are popping up all over the city. It is the type of place I would go to on a weeknight when I don’t feel like cooking.

Three tips of the toque to Cedar Point. ■

Cedar Point Bard and Kitchen

2370 E. Norris Street at Cedar St.
215-423-5400

cedarpointbarandkitchen.com

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