Burger Fi

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Ten years ago, New York City businessman Danny Meyer, who made his reputation in fine high end dining, came up with a simple restaurant concept. He would sell burgers, hot dogs, milkshakes and french fries. Thus, the first Shake Shack was born. People lined up to get in. Philadelphia’s location opened more than two years ago.

This modern approach to fast food has spawned a slew of similar restaurants around the country. Like Meyer, owners use locally-sourced ingredients. Some places offer cocktails, beer and wine.

Burger Fi, which opened about six months ago across the street from The Reading Terminal Market, is always busy at lunchtime. Since I am still on a quest to find top burgers in town — and the one served at Devil’s Den is still my favorite — I wanted to try it.

We decided to go for an early dinner. It was busy but seats were available, especially at the bar. This burger place has a happy hour. Instead of ordering our meal at the counter, we took a menu from the bartender. Cocktails were as low as $8.

Burger Fi lists the calorie count on all menu items. The Burger Fi cheeseburger ($6.57) consisted of a double natural Angus burger topped with American cheese, lettuce and tomato. One can’t order a burger to his or her liking such as medium or medium-rare, but the beef was tasty and not overcooked. It was served on a soft bun. The brisket burger ($9.97) appeared to be the favorite among Burger Fi patrons, as we got the last one. It was prepared with 28-day aged ground brisket, topped with Swiss and blue cheeses, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles. It imparted a rich flavor, and I assume the brisket used in this patty included some fat in the grinding process.

I especially liked the french fries served here. A small order ($2.97) is large enough for two. They were crispy and hot. Some of these newfangled burger restaurants can’t get their fries right, as they are often limp and greasy. These were as close to perfection as one can get.

Chicago is known for its deep dish pizza and hot dogs. The good citizens of the Windy City are very picky about their hot dogs. One will never find ketchup in any Chicago hot dog emporium. And the dogs are served on a steamed poppy seed bun.

Burger Fi’s version ($4.47) is described as an all-natural dog with mustard, bright Kelly green relish, diced onion, sliced tomatoes, peppers, celery salt and a pickle spear served on a soft steamed poppy seed bun. The dog could have been hotter, but it was close in flavor to the ones I enjoyed in Chicago.

Wagyu Kobe beef has been all the rage in recent years. Burger Fi makes a hot dog using this beef ($4.97). I could not detect any difference in flavor or texture to the type used in the Chicago-style dog. Top it with sauerkraut (57 cents), and you’ve got a better tasting treat.

The crispy fried onion rings ($3.97 for the regular size) needed salt, but thank goodness they were not greasy. I thought they could have spent a little more time in the fryer.

Since Meyer came up with the idea of serving frozen custard at his Shake Shacks, why not copy it? A custard sundae ($5.97 for the large) consisted of chocolate and vanilla custard layers topped with whipped cream and multi-colored jimmies. They are listed as sprinkles on the menu (Burger Fi’s owners don’t know Philly). Since the custard was packed into a large plastic cup, it did not look like a sundae. The flavor and texture were lacking. I guess I just miss the Kohr’s frozen custard of my childhood.

Burger Fi does a big beer business. The bartenders are knowledgeable and helped their guests make the right choice. One woman toted home a six pack of Stella Artois.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Burger Fi. 

Burger Fi

44 N. 12th St.
267-928-3882
burgerfi.com

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

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