Il Villaggio
782 S. Second St.
215-627-7701
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
You may not be aware that Giovanni and Mama Bertina, who owned La Grolla for many years, have retired. Three months ago, Il Villaggio opened in the space. It is fitting that Queen Village’s newest restaurant is called "The Village" in Italian.
Edward and I were met at the door by a smiling young man who showed us to a roomy table. The front and back dining rooms had a bit of a facelift. Pretty black wrought-iron pieces adorn the freshly painted walls. The beautiful hand-carved wood bar is still in place. Tables are covered with crisp white linen and napkins. A glass vase filled with colorful flowers and a cruet of extra-virgin olive oil sat on each table.
I tip my toque to Il Villaggio straightaway: Specials are printed, with prices, on the last sheet of the menu. Our waiter brought us a basket of bread and a small dish of roasted red and green peppers. Good-sized, perfectly prepared Bombay Sapphire martinis were a bargain at $7.50. Edward and I nibbled and sipped and discussed the menu.
The menu is more modern and refined than La Grolla’s, where good home cooking took center stage. My antipasto of scallops and beans ($8.50) was a delicious culinary twist on the classic shrimp and beans. Carrots, celery and onions were chopped in tiny dice. They were braised with a bit of olive oil and white wine before they were mixed with white beans. The mound of vegetables sat in the center of the warm plate topped with fresh alfalfa sprouts. Five large sea scallops were pan-seared with the right touch of salt and pepper and placed around the vegetables. The scallops were cooked just right, still a bit translucent inside.
Caesar salad ($6) arrived on a chilled plate. A generous serving of crisp, cool romaine lettuce was tossed in homemade Caesar dressing. The dressing contained the right balance of olive oil, lemon juice and anchovies. It was topped with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and a scattering of homemade croutons. Nearly every restaurant serves this classic salad, but few do it well.
As soon as our waiter saw our empty plates, he whisked them away. In fact, he and his assistant watched our table throughout dinner, serving and clearing with ease and a smile.
One of Il Villaggio’s autumn specials is risotto with hen of the woods mushrooms ($14.50). A woman near us was tucking into the risotto and the aroma wafting from her table was heavenly. Edward enjoyed the dish but I didn’t care for it as much. Hen of the woods mushrooms, once wild, now are being cultivated. They have a rich, deep flavor, are dark-brown in color and have a firm texture. They resemble small pinecones. Because these mushrooms are so dark in color, the risotto took on the dark-brown hue. I found the dish bland, but a bit of salt and pepper did help. Although the risotto was perfectly cooked and retained its al dente texture, Edward and I agreed the dish could have been hotter.
A well-prepared veal chop rarely disappoints my husband Edward. Il Villaggio’s version ($19.50) is done alla parmigiana. "Can I have a plain breaded veal chop with the sauce on the side and no cheese?" he asked our waiter. "Of course you can. I will bring you some gorgonzola sauce on the side," he responded.
Edward received a large chop that had been dipped in a batter rather than seasoned bread crumbs. The batter imparted a rich golden-brown color. It was juicy, tender and top-quality. While I generally prefer plain bread crumbs and a quick saut�, Edward really enjoyed the batter coating and finished his dinner with ease. A small mound of greens was placed next to the chop. He received a side of gnocchi bathed in a touch of homemade tomato sauce. I thought the little dumplings could have been lighter, but Edward liked them.
Dover sole ($24) was another autumn special. It is my favorite fish. I first tasted this delicate English swimmer 21 years ago on our honeymoon in London. We are fortunate that Dover sole is airlifted to Philadelphia fresh, not frozen. It is usually cooked on the bone, which enhances its flavor. Our waiter brought the fish on a metal platter and was about to remove the large center bone when I told him I liked to eat sole off the bone. As I tucked into dinner, I was able to easily remove the bone. This Dover sole was grilled and nicely seasoned. Unfortunately, it was a bit overcooked. I received a small saucer of mashed potatoes and string beans, which were topped with tomato sauce. The vegetables were on the cool side.
Il Villaggio has a very moderately priced wine list. A bottle of Sangiovese was just $20. Wines are available by the glass as well.
Service was about the best you can get. Staff are professional and courteous. Silverware was changed with each course, our water glasses filled when needed. In a time when restaurants are getting so dark I often whip out my handy portable flashlight, the lighting at Il Villaggio was perfect. I could read the menu and see the food on my plate. Noise level was fine. We listened to opera and Frank Sinatra piped in at a perfect level during dinner.
Il Villaggio has been open for only about three months. Quiet openings are often best, as the splashy hooplas — more common pre-Sept. 11 — have become a rarity. Word of mouth and good food bring patrons to a new restaurant. Although I found a few glitches, we enjoyed a pleasurable evening.
Two tips of the toque to Il Villaggio.
