Holy cannoli!

In 1904, Teddy Roosevelt was President of the United States, Philadelphia was a leader in the world of manufacturing, the Philadelphia Orchestra was just 4 years old and the Bellevue Stratford Hotel was set to open on South Broad Street.

That year, Mario Isgro arrived in Philadelphia after mastering the culinary arts in Vienna and Messina. One century and three generations later, Isgro Pasticceria, the shop he opened in South Philadelphia, is still in business, his family still turning out cakes, cookies, cannoli, wedding cakes and an array of Italian and European desserts.

From noon to 4:30 p.m. Sunday, the Isgro family, headed by Mario’s grandson, Augustine "Gus" Isgro, his wife Lucille and their baker son Michael, will toss a 100th birthday party. The public is invited to take part in the festivities in front of the store at 1009 Christian St.

"It feels terrific, very exciting but I hope I don’t break down when I talk on stage because I know how emotional I can get," said Gus Isgro. "It is still a family business. My wife Lucille does all the clerical work, and my uncle Sam Isgro and my mom Mary Sarano are still here. My son Michael, who went to Cabrini College and The Restaurant School, is a baker, and my son A.J., who is 14, likes to play with the dough — he’s not a baker yet."

Gus Isgro’s grandfather died in 1975. Gus, now 56, grew up in the business. He said he has been receiving many phone calls from loyal customers congratulating him and his family on the bakery’s birthday. He also receives calls from families thanking him for a delicious wedding cake or cookie and cannoli trays.

"I don’t know what to do, I don’t know what to say to them," said Gus. "I don’t know how to truly thank them for their loyalty."

The baker believes he has been successful in the business because he "was taught properly."

"It is a blessing every time I taste something new," he said. "I’ve been blessed with the capability of analyzing the ingredients. And I will never compromise on the quality of my ingredients."

Those confection ingredients — butter, eggs and flour — have become more and more expensive over the years, a fact of which customers might not be conscious, Gus said.

"I only use sweet butter," he said. "I will never use margarine or a non-dairy product. I call Chicago every Friday to learn the price of ingredients. Years ago, butter was $1.25 a pound. Now it is $3.15 a pound."

Although son Michael went to culinary school, Gus said his boy learned to become a master baker by watching and doing.

"How can you put down in words what a dough or batter is supposed to feel like?" he posed. "You just can’t. I learned to bake by feeling because my grandfather never wrote down any recipes. Now we have a recipe book, but you learn by watching and feeling the dough."

Here is a rundown of the events planned for Isgro Pasticceria’s 100th birthday:

* Jerry Blavat will host the opening ceremonies, accompanied by the sounds of the City Lights Orchestra. Children ages 3-12 can take part in a birthday-card design contest, with judging at 1 p.m. Home bakers are invited to bring an 8-inch cake to the party. The cake-decorating contest is open to men, women and children of all ages, with judging scheduled for 1:30 p.m. After the contest, everyone will sing "Happy Birthday," and enjoy slices of a very special birthday cake.

* Isgro’s is famous for its cannoli. People line up at the door to purchase these chocolate-, vanilla- or ricotta-filled treats. At 2:30 p.m., the Isgro family will unveil what is billed to be the "world’s largest cannoli." The public will learn how to bag, fill and eat them as well. The City Lights Orchestra returns for a performance from 3:45-4:30 p.m., followed by a Mummers march down Christian Street.

* Prizes will be awarded to those who bring a 1904 penny to the party, as well as the oldest customer, the youngest customer, customers who have shopped at the bakery for the longest period of time and more.

On Mother’s Day last week, a long line of men, women and children waited patiently to get inside and take a number at Isgro’s. Everyone was chatting about the upcoming birthday party. Gus said his customers enjoy the dolci that made the bakery famous, but they occasionally ask him for something new.

New desserts can be as delicious as cream cakes, cannoli, pignoli cookies or pumpkin pie. But the sign in the bakery’s window says it all: "Times change … tradition remains."

Happy birthday. Tanti auguri.