Royal Tavern

More than four years ago, a restaurant/bar called Standard Tap opened in Northern Liberties. The interior was nothing to look at, but the food was a pleasant surprise. Until I reviewed Standard Tap, I never saw organic salads and duck confit on a tavern menu.

Several months ago, I had a similar experience at Good Dog, which opened on the site of the long-standing Frank Clement’s bar. Duck potpie, homemade macaroni and cheese and fresh vegetables were on offer.

Both restaurants received three toques for their unusually delicious pub fare. And, after a marvelous meal at Royal Tavern, I concluded this South Philly eatery has joined the ranks when it comes to unique and moderately priced pub food.

The building first housed Aglio, a marvelous Italian restaurant run by chef Frank Audino, not to be confused with the late Frank Auddino, who owned La Vigna. Next, it was the delightful Paglia e Fieno, named for the famous Italian pasta dish called "straw and hay," which I reviewed at least six or seven years ago. Now it’s Royal Tavern.

Don’t let the hideous, desperately in-need-of-repair front door fool you. Walk in, mosey up to the beautiful hand-carved mahogany Edwardian bar, order a beer and peruse the menu. And don’t miss the specials, with prices, listed on the chalkboard. The burgundy walls in the bar and back dining room are in need of some artwork, but the tin ceiling is enchanting.

My husband Edward and I arrived around 5:30, ordered a Rob Roy and a martini, both small and $7, and watched Olympic boxing. The menu was absolutely intriguing.

The classic wedge ($5) consisted of a head of iceberg lettuce that had been cut in half, topped with homemade creamy Russian dressing and enhanced by crispy bits of smoked applewood bacon. Sweet grape tomato halves were placed around the lettuce. You can order the salad with blue cheese if you prefer. The salad was so large, Edward had to help me finish it.

Gazpacho ($5) was the soup of the day. It was the puréed variety, rich with tomato, cucumber and red pepper flavor. It had a marvelous velvety texture. Crispy breadsticks came with the soup.

Clams in roasted garlic broth ($9) were so outrageously delicious, I could have enjoyed another order. I received at least a dozen not-at-all-chewy littleneck clams nestled in a rich homemade roasted garlic broth that made my taste buds sour. I received several slices of toasted buttery French bread to soak up the flavor. Roasting garlic brings out its sweetness, and helped it marry well with the natural clam juices and white wine used to make the broth.

Greek salad ($9), in honor of the Summer Games in Athens, was another winner. A large, chilled plate was brimming with hefty slices of ripe red and yellow tomatoes bursting with flavor, Greek feta cheese, kalamata olives, grape tomato halves and roasted peppers, arranged like a French classic "salade compose." A light, tasty vinaigrette dressed the salad. Each ingredient was top quality and the salad had colorful eye appeal.

Now for something completely different: a duck club sandwich ($9). The bartender warned me it was going to be huge. Boy, was he right.

Boneless breast of duck was smoked in-house and then perfectly cooked. It was piled high on three round slices of toasted boule, the marvelous French sourdough. Applewood-smoked bacon came next. Then a thick slice of red ripe tomato, lettuce and the pièce de résistance — homemade cherry-onion relish instead of run-of-the-mill mayo.

What can I say? Who thought this up? This was the most unusual sandwich I have ever seen on a restaurant menu. Piping-hot crispy french fries, totally free of grease, came with the sandwich.

Edward adores fish and chips. This classic British dish prepared at Royal Tavern ($10) was A-1. The Brits usually use plaice, a relative of the American flounder, when frying fish and chips. This version made use of New England cod, a rich, meaty fish that holds up well when coated in beer batter and fried to a golden brown. Oh my, was it good. Edward adores tartar sauce. This version was homemade with a slight tang. The chips — what the Brits call french fries — came with dinner.

Royal Tavern features a fine list of beers on tap. I opted for a pint of Stella Artois from Belgium, while Edward looked to England and enjoyed a pint of Beamish stout. Both were $4.

As we were enjoying dinner, the place began to fill up. I could not help but take in what some people were eating.

One woman seated near us ordered the sautéed spinach sandwich ($7.50), piled high with fresh baby spinach, roasted peppers, onion, pine nuts and herbed goat cheese — goodness, what an unusual vegetarian sandwich. The burgers ($7.50) are half-pounders topped with lettuce, tomato and sweet red onion.

Other moderately priced menu items include a grilled 8-ounce pub steak topped with a roasted-tomato red wine sauce and served with mashed potatoes for $12.50. And the specials are really specials — such as the littleneck clams and Greek salad — and not a bit overpriced.

Royal Tavern is a marvelous addition to South Philly. I perused its brunch menu and decided to return on a cool autumn Sunday — especially when the Eagles are winning.

Three tips of the toque to Royal Tavern.

Royal Tavern
937 E. Passyunk Ave.
215-389-6694
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
Delicious modern American pub fare