McFadden’s

I have always enjoyed dining in unusual spots, whether it’s lunching by the Seine in Paris or sipping champagne among the mummies at the University Museum.

The latest in "location dining" is McFadden’s, which is adjacent to Citizens Bank Park, the new home of the Phillies. The pub is open year-round.

In late August, I received an invitation to dinner at McFadden’s and was surprised to discover Al Paris is the consulting chef at the restaurant. I’ve known the chef for many years. He lives in South Philly with his wife and kids, and has been in charge of the kitchen at the delightful Zanzibar Blue for a number of years.

Edward and I accepted the invitation and we made a return trip six weeks later.

McFadden’s is not your run-of-the-mill sports bar/pub/restaurant. Much thought went into the interior, which is highlighted by lots of dark wood, adequate lighting and high tables set with linen napkins. The eatery consists of a large bar/dining area, with several televisions for sports viewing, and a quieter dining room and bar. There’s also patio seating when the weather behaves.

Paris greeted us and we chatted about the menu. Drinks are hefty and well-made; cocktails are $8. The chef took a key from his apron pocket and led us through a door that opened into the ballpark. Seeing the field at dusk, totally empty of screaming fans, was a beautiful sight.

A group of guests then went into the dining room for dinner. My husband and I enjoyed the onion tree ($6.95), a generous helping of well-prepared, crispy fried onion rings that we plucked from a contraption resembling a tree. Garlic-steamed mussels ($8.95) were on the small side. I doubt they were Prince Edward Island or New Zealand beauties, but they were free of grit and not a bit overcooked. The garlic sauce was just right for my taste and I enjoyed dipping chunks of bread into it.

Caesar salad is served everywhere and I’m tired of it. McFadden’s version ($5.75) was a large oval platter of so-so romaine, a bit on the room- temperature side, tossed with croutons straight from a box, which did little to enhance the salad. However, the dressing, which was served on the side, was quite tasty. Squiggles of fresh Parmesan were scattered over the romaine. The salad was large enough for two.

Edward and I are both fans of rib steaks and we prefer them grilled rare. McFadden’s rib eye ($16.95) was thin and not hefty like a rib eye should be. Still, the beef was tender and arrived rare. Honest-to-goodness, piping-hot mashed potatoes, loaded with milk and butter, came with the steaks, as did perfectly steamed asparagus.

McFadden’s purchases its cheesecakes from the Aramingo Diner. I love diner cheesecake and this one ($4.95) did not disappoint. It was creamy yet a bit dense, just as I like it. The deep-dish apple pie with vanilla ice cream ($4.95) was also uncommonly good.

About six weeks after that meal, Edward, my mom Berthe, my sister Sandy and I arrived at McFadden’s about 30 minutes before a concert was to start at the Wachovia Center. The place was packed. Fifteen minutes later, it cleared out. We opted to eat in the bar area so I could compare its service with the service we received in the dining room on our previous visit.

Paris was not at the restaurant during this dinner, and no one knew my identity.

Our server greeted us with a smile and took our drink order. We sampled "almost wings" ($8.50) and the aforementioned Caesar salad. Almost wings are large boneless pieces of chicken breast, nicely cooked and not a bit overdone. The portion was hefty, the chicken not too spicy. The appetizer came with blue cheese sauce and carrot sticks. The "wings" were room temperature; I would have preferred them heated up a bit, but this is a matter of personal taste. The Caesar was exactly the same as on our previous dinner.

From the sandwich selection, we chose what McFadden’s calls the essential cheesesteak ($8.50), which is a rib eye with cheese — with or without onions; the vegetable portabello cheesesteak ($7.95); the crab-cake sandwich ($9.95) and charbroiled American burger ($8.95). French fries come with all sandwiches.

The cheesesteak is prepared with tender slices of rib eye. A word of caution before you order it, however: The cheese is Cheez Whiz, and I cannot digest it. Our charming waitress understood, whisked the cheesesteak away and brought me a freshly prepared one done up with provolone. This was one of the tastiest cheesesteaks I’ve enjoyed in recent memory. The steak was juicy and not a bit greasy. I received a mound of piping-hot fries.

Edward enjoyed the portabello mushroom sandwich. Slices of meaty, heady mushrooms were grilled and served on a bun, along with sautéed onions, sharp provolone, lettuce and tomato, all topped with honey mustard.

Crab cakes are often iffy in restaurants. Sometimes the crabmeat quality is low or it is mixed with too much filler. The crabmeat used at McFadden’s is of good quality and very few breadcrumbs are added to the mixture, which was seasoned just right. Sandy pronounced it delicious.

Mom loved her burger. She asked for it medium-rare and it was. A half-pound of ground sirloin sat on the bun, topped with lettuce, tomato and sweet red onion. You can enjoy the burger with melted American cheese at no extra charge.

Service was excellent. Staff consists mainly of college students who are courteous, delightful and professional.

I think McFadden’s needs more of Paris’ culinary input on the menu. I would like to see more modern pub fare like the dishes served at Standard Tap, Good Dog, Ten Stone and Abbaye.

Two tips of the toque to McFadden’s.

McFadden’s Restaurant & Saloon
One Citizens Bank Way
215-952-0300
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible