The first of two columns dedicated to the Thanksgiving feast.
Thanksgiving is two weeks from today. It has always been my favorite holiday and, through the years, I have learned to pare down my menu, keep things simple and buy the best ingredients I can find.
Regular readers of my column know I purchase my poultry from Godshall’s in the Reading Terminal Market. Farmer Bolton, whose Bucks County farm I once visited, supplies Godshall’s with organic free-range chickens, capons and turkeys. Several months ago, I tried something new. I bought a 6-pound turkey breast and roasted it in a 500-degree oven for about two hours. The result was so delicious, the meat so tender and juicy, I vowed to make a larger turkey breast for Thanksgiving.
The turkey breast sits on the breastbone, which makes for easy carving with an electric knife. You have absolutely no waste. Because my husband is the only one in the family who prefers dark meat, I bought a semi-boneless turkey thigh, which weighed about 1-1/2 pounds, and roasted it as well. You can buy a completely boneless turkey breast, but sometimes they have been processed and tend to be dry. Besides, the breastbone gives the turkey flavor.
If you make a turkey breast, the stuffing of your choice can be made in a greased casserole. In the South, stuffing is called dressing, especially if it isn’t crammed into the cavity of the bird.
Speaking of the South, cooks in that region use oysters in stews, side dishes and stuffing for Thanksgiving dinner. Last month, I savored a delicious oyster chowder prepared by South Philadelphia-born chef Chris Scarduzio, a partner at Brasserie Perrier. I’m going to begin Thanksgiving dinner with this delectable soup because it is a tradition in the Stein-Novack home to serve a fish course before the main event.
I always prepare baby Brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes for Thanksgiving dinner. Sometimes I steam the sprouts, add saut�ed caramelized shallots and serve. Since I do not prepare a salad, I always set out a crispy relish tray filled with colorful crudit�s.
Next week I will give you recipes for Thanksgiving desserts developed by pastry chef Antoinette "Toni" Cardomone, who was born in South Philly and raised in Blackwood, N.J., but moved back to the neighborhood she says she will always call home.
Here are recipes for Thanksgiving.
Chris Scarduzio’s Oyster Chowder
Ingredients:
5 dozen brine oysters
1 quart water or fish broth
1 bouquet garni bag filled with 3 fresh thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf and 1 small bunch parsley
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 pound bacon, cut into strips
4 medium onions, chopped
3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Scrub the oysters and put them in a 4-quart pot with water and bouquet garni. Cover the pot, bring the liquid to a boil, then simmer until the oysters open, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and make sure they are free of sand. Remove the shells and place the oysters in a bowl and cover. Reserve the cooking liquid.
In a heavy-bottomed 4-quart stockpot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the bacon and brown. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon. Add the onions, turn down the heat and saut� until the onions are translucent. Do not brown them. Cook for 10 minutes and add the potatoes and the cooking liquid from the oysters. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the heavy cream, parsley and chives and simmer for about one minute. Add the reserved oysters, season and serve.
Serves eight.
Note from Phyllis: Bouquet garni bags are made from cheesecloth and can be found in kitchenware stores such as Fante’s.
Roasted Turkey Breast
Ingredients:
1 (8- to 10-pound) fresh turkey breast on the bone
1 large onion, peeled and cut into chunks
1 large celery rib, cut into chunks
1 (15-ounce) can chicken stock
Vegetable oil, to massage the turkey breast
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Imported sweet Hungarian paprika
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.
Bring the turkey breast to room temperature. Place the onion, celery and chicken stock in the bottom of a roasting pan large enough to accommodate the turkey breast. Pour some vegetable oil in your hands and massage it all over the turkey breast. Sprinkle on kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and paprika.
Place the turkey breast in the oven and roast for at least two-and-a-half hours. Check the turkey for doneness. The juices should run clear. If not, roast another 15 to 30 minutes. All oven temperatures are different. Do not overcook.
Set the turkey breast to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving. Pour the pan juices in a saucepan. You can add 2 tablespoons of cornstarch to a glass of water to thicken the gravy or just leave it as is. Pour the gravy into a warm sauceboat.
Serves eight to 10.
Mushroom and Sage Stuffing
Ingredients:
1 large onion, chopped
1-1/2 pounds fresh mushrooms of your choice, such as button, shiitake and cremini, or a mixture of all three, wiped clean and chopped
1 large leek, thoroughly washed, split down the middle and sliced
1 stick butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (15-ounce) can chicken, mushroom or vegetable stock
1 (1-pound) bag crushed herb stuffing mix
1 small bunch fresh sage leaves
Directions:
Place the onions and leeks in a bowl and mix with your hands. Place the mushrooms in another bowl and mix with your hands.
Melt the butter and olive oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and leeks and saut� until they are translucent. Remove with a slotted spoon to a large mixing bowl. Add the mushrooms to the skillet and saut� until they give up their liquid, about five minutes or so. You may wish to add a bit more butter to the pan. Remove with a slotted spoon to the large mixing bowl. Place the stuffing mix into the mixing bowl. Add the stock and blend well with a large wooden spoon. If the mixture feels a bit dry, add some water. You want a nice, moist stuffing. Add the sage leaves and blend well.
Spray two large casserole dishes with nonstick vegetable spray. Place the stuffing in the casseroles. While the turkey rests, place the casseroles in a 400-degree oven for about 20 minutes. You can even microwave one of the casseroles. Make sure the stuffing is piping hot.
Serves eight to 10.
Note from Phyllis: You can add some grated carrot and a pound of saut�ed sweet sausage to the stuffing. You can make the stuffing the day before, cover with plastic wrap and keep in the refrigerator. If so, bring the stuffing to room temperature before cooking.
