Azure

I tend to shy away from restaurants whose menus wander all over the world. The food is rarely a winner. For example, a number of cooks failed at the Italian and Cajun concept, while the fusion fad came and went.

But Azure in Northern Liberties turns out a variety of ethnic dishes pretty well. As Edward, my mom and I sipped drinks there, I noticed the menu featured dishes from many lands. There’s Mexican, Italian, Jamaican, Asian and Greek.

Azure has been open for about two years. It’s a warm and funky place with a roomy bar and casual dining room. An original brick wall lines the lengths of the bar area and the dining-room walls are painted a cheery yellow. A number of beers are on tap and you can enjoy a glass or bottle of wine at an uncommonly low cost.

Todd, our server, doubles as bartender. He brought us complimentary slightly salty taco chips with a refreshing black-bean salsa, redolent with fresh coriander, tomatoes and minced sweet red onion. We ordered a bottle of Australian Shiraz, a downright bargain at $18. There are a number of wines at this price and several at $23.

Todd set up the blackboard specials on a chair next to us. There were only a few, thank goodness, and they included prices. Soup of the day was Manhattan clam chowder ($4.50). Mom received a good-sized bowl of this glorious all-American favorite, which arrived piping hot. It was filled with tiny clams, fresh chopped tomatoes, potatoes and celery. One taste and I knew it was homemade.

We traveled to three countries for our appetizers. All the dishes were tasty and well prepared. Fried calamari ($8) was a hefty plate of tiny rings of squid that had been dipped into panko breadcrumbs before they were fried to a crisp golden brown. The chef included fried jalapeño rings. which packed a hot punch. The combination was unusually delicious. Homemade aioli was prepared with roasted garlic and a hint of fresh lemon juice.

Vegetarian steamed dumplings ($5) equaled the ones in fine Asian restaurants. The plate contained about six dumplings, which were plump and filled with shredded napa cabbage, carrots, corn kernels and seasonings. The wrappers might not have been homemade but they were light and not a bit gummy. The soy dipping sauce was laced with fresh orange juice.

The mushroom quesadilla ($8) was filled with grilled portobello beauties, caramelized sweet red onion, goat cheese and jack cheese. It was freshly prepared, nice and hot. A drizzling of balsamic vinegar (emphasis on drizzling here, as so many chefs have a heavy hand with the ingredient) was added around the plate and the "Mexican pizza" was topped with squiggles of cream mixed with fresh lime juice.

One of the blackboard specials was a Greek-style fillet of red snapper ($17). Two good-sized fillets were grilled just right and topped with fresh chopped tomatoes and kalamata olives. The fish was perfectly cooked and slightly translucent inside. Six asparagus spears were grilled with a touch of olive oil and tied together with a strip of green scallion. They were toothsome and immaculately fresh. I especially liked the slight smoky flavor of the grilled vegetables. A mound of room-temperature orzo, tossed with bits of Greek feta and sweet red onions, completed the dish.

Azure’s menu features a number of sandwiches, including a hefty grilled sirloin burger ($7.50), which can be ordered with a choice of cheese or toppings. My mom likes her burger straight. It arrived medium rare, as ordered, nestled on a fresh, crusty Metropolitan sourdough roll. The chef thoughtfully cut it in half for easier eating. The homemade french fries were so good and the amount so generous, Edward and I helped Mom finish them.

The pork tenderloin platter was delicious and reasonably priced at $13. The tenderloin had been marinated in a mix of citrus juices, along with some passion-fruit juice. The generous portion of pork was grilled, sliced and served. I thought it was slightly overcooked, however. Still, it had a fine flavor. My dinner came with hot smashed red-bliss potatoes and wilted baby spinach sautéed with fresh garlic.

Todd told us that the homemade bread pudding ($5) was a specialty. Edward and I were delighted to discover this dessert is not made with raisins. The pudding was made to order, but it was worth the 15-minute wait. It was cut into a large square, crispy on the outside, nice and creamy inside. I’m not sure what type of bread was used, but it had a fabulous texture. The dessert sat on a pool of homemade mocha crème anglaise and was big enough for three.

Azure is the type of place where I could make a meal out of a succession of multiethnic appetizers, a salad and a dessert. There are a number of vegetarian items on the menu, not just the one or two requisite dishes most restaurants offer.

Service was first-rate and prices so affordable, I understand why Azure has a loyal following. As a bonus, a handful of appetizers are half-price from 5 to 7 p.m., Monday through Friday.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Azure.

Azure
931 N. Second St.
215-629-0500
www.azurerestaurant.net
Credit cards accepted
Not wheelchair-accessible
Open for lunch and dinner seven days