Mercato

There appears to be a "recipe" for new BYOBs, which have been multiplying like rabbits in the past few years. Keep the dining space small – no more than about 40 seats – and the decor to an Ikea-like minimum. Add a fresh coat of paint, soft inexpensive lighting, a small menu, preferably Italian, and a friendly, competent staff and you may have a successful establishment.

Mercato, which bears a strong resemblance to the popular Melagrano just 10 blocks away, opened three weeks ago. The space, located at 1216 Spruce St., once housed a grocery store, hence the name Mercato, which means "market" in Italian.

Edward and I arrived on a weeknight and were fortunate to get the next-to-last table. It appears Mercato is serving the neighborhood around 12th and Spruce very well. It shares the block with Vetri and Valanni, which is owned by George and Valerie Anni, who also own Mercato. The couple asked executive chef R. Evan Turney to walk across the street and open their new place. I always enjoyed Turney’s cuisine at Valanni and looked forward to an enjoyable evening.

Turney has put together a modern, Italian-inspired bill of fare with a few evening specials. The wait staff is courteous and professional, watching the tables, changing the silverware for each course and filling the water glasses. We munched on top-quality pitted olives, and extra-virgin olive oil was tasty with warm crusty rolls.

We were seated near the gleaming, stainless-steel open kitchen and enjoyed the view as Turney and his two sous chefs prepared dinner. A sushi bar-like table, which seats four, is in front of the open kitchen.

We began dinner with Tuscan bean salad ($7) and market salad ($7). Most chefs use small white Northern beans in these salads, but Turney used the larger butter beans. The Tuscan bean salad included pine nuts, slices of crisp radishes, bits of roasted baby red and yellow beets and mixed greens dressed in a light vinaigrette prepared with Chianti vinegar.

The market salad imparted a deeper flavor than the bean salad due to the wonderfully rich contrasts of tastes and textures. Turney used sliced, ripe Bosc pears, pan-crisped bits of proscuitto di Parma, spicy hazelnuts, sweet slices of small figs and a scattering of imported Gorgonzola. The salad was topped with a hazelnut vinaigrette, which I especially liked. Hazelnut oil imparts a heady aroma and flavor.

Edward and I selected orecchiette ($16) and grilled pork chop ($18) for our entrées. Orecchiette, which means "little ears" in Italian, has become a popular pasta within the past 10 years. Turney turned his attention to a classic preparation, but added an inspiring ingredient – tiny, heavenly meatballs. He prepared a fresh, tasty red gravy, which brought out the deep flavors of Italian sweet sausage and broccoli rabe. The pasta was not oversauced and the gravy was properly reduced, not a bit watery.

Pork is one item that must not be overcooked. Turney grilled an 8-ounce loin pork chop to pink perfection. It was tender, it was juicy and was one of the best restaurant pork dishes I’ve had in recent memory. The chop was topped with natural pan juices and some white wine. It was seasoned just right. My dinner included a toothsome risotto laced with fresh lemon juice and topped with snipped chives.

Desserts ($7) were not a disappointment. Pistachio gelato is one of my favorites. (More and more restaurants are serving this marvelous Italian ice cream instead of its American cousin.) I tucked into three good-sized scoops at Mercato.

Mascarpone cheesecake was another winner. Edward received an individual round cake, at least 3 inches in diameter, prepared with one of our favorite Italian dessert cheeses. We both liked the crispy graham-cracker cookie crust.

Although the restaurant was filled to capacity, service was first rate. There was never a long wait between courses. The acoustics were fine; I could easily eavesdrop on the conversation going on between two young men seated next to us.

Mercato was filled with what my mother would call "nicely dressed" young professionals. Other patrons brought wine and appeared to be enjoying their dinner, just as we did.

There is one drawback, however. It is almost impossible to find a parking spot in the neighborhood. Edward drove around for almost a half-hour before he found a spot at Fourth and Bainbridge. We should have walked or taken the bus. Still, we enjoyed strolling to the car on a perfect spring evening.

Three tips of the toque to Mercato.

Mercato
1216 Spruce St.
215-985-BYOB
Cash only
Not wheelchair-accessible
Open for dinner seven days