The Food Network has been bombarding viewers with programs on the all-American barbecue. Just watching the shows makes me hungry for the real thing: slow-smoked Tennessee or North Carolina brisket and dry-rubbed ribs.
Fortunately, there is a restaurant that cooks real barbecue, The Smoked Joint on Locust Street. Owner Michael Berman ensures his ribs, brisket and salmon are slow smoked in-house for the finest flavor.
While driving along Delaware Avenue, my husband Edward and I noticed Famous Dave’s, a new barbecue restaurant. We decided to see if Famous Dave’s could hold its own against The Smoked Joint. Unfortunately, it didn’t.
Famous Dave’s is a typical chain restaurant that offers so-so food served by a cheery staff. The interior is real kitschy, filled with tchotchkes like stuffed animal heads and old beer cans.
The place was packed with couples and families. Our hostess showed us to a high-top table in the bar so, as we ate, we could watch the Phillies beat the Mets.
Tables are set with a jumbo roll of paper towels instead of napkins, which makes sense because barbecue is on the messy side. A paper six-pack carton was filled with squeeze bottles of barbecue sauce ranging from mild to sweet to hot and spicy.
Our server, Maria, took good care of us, taking our drink order and giving us some time to peruse the menu.
Beefeater martinis were just $5.75, a good price since most cocktails these days go for $10-$12. Few of the appetizers caught our eye except for the catfish. Catfish fingers ($7.59) consisted of a few strips of boneless catfish dipped into seasoned crumbs and fried until golden brown. Although the fish was not a bit overcooked, the coating was a bit greasy. The dish came with two dipping sauces, a slightly sweet barbecue sauce and a creamy remoulade, which I especially liked.
We shared the jumbo Caesar salad (Caesar salad in a barbecue joint?), which cost $6.99. Maria brought us heavy-duty blue plastic plates so we could split the salad. Most of the romaine leaves were crispy, but the platter contained its share of limpy lettuce. Edward and I found the homemade dressing contained much too much vinegar, giving it a sour flavor. Lemon juice should be used in Caesar salad. The dressing was not emulsified; it was thin and lacked body. Some shredded cheese and a handful of croutons topped the salad.
Since ribs and brisket are the hallmarks of barbecue, I ordered the six-rib platter ($14.99) and Edward went for the sausage platter ($13.78) with an addition of brisket ($3.29). I ordered my ribs "naked" because I prefer a dry rub, just like they are prepared in the South. Besides, I like to dip my ribs into sauce.
The ribs were meaty, but lacked the marvelous smoky flavor of authentic ribs. From the first bite, it appeared they were pre-cooked and they didn’t arrive hot, either. My dinner came with a sweet corn muffin, a quarter of an ear of yellow corn, coleslaw and french fries. (You get a choice of two sides at Famous Dave’s.) The coleslaw was the usual shredded green cabbage mixed with mayonnaise and vinegar while the french fries were cottage fries – and were on the greasy side. They should have spent more time in the fryer because the potatoes were light yellow in color.
We liked the two big plump sausages, but they tasted pre-cooked, as well. Famous Dave’s potato salad was better than the coleslaw. It was rich in flavor and nicely seasoned.
The brisket was nothing more than bits of stringy cool meat with no flavor whatsoever. Brisket should be sliced against the grain; this beef was just plain dry. It sat on a piece of thick white bread, which I found odd.
Famous Dave’s offers a children’s menu, reduced-price lunch and an early-bird menu from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Although the staff was caring, more care should be taken in the kitchen in order to satisfy anyone’s hankering for real barbecue.
One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Famous Dave’s.
Famous Dave’s
1936 S. Columbus Blvd.
215-339-0339
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
www.famousdaves.com
