Succulent success

Watching Deb and Frank Barbato cook up their baby-back ribs is something to savor.

After the meat marinates in a "secret" concoction for two days, it’s placed in an oven where it cooks for two hours. As Deb removes the aluminum foil that covers the ribs, an aromatic steam wafts from the cooking trays.

The cooking process, though, is anything but complete. Deb tosses the ribs on the grill and paints them with one of two homemade sauces. Once the meat has a brownish-red hue and maintains the perfect consistency, it is ready for devouring.

It is this unique technique, coupled with their love of cooking, that the two owners of Bomb Bomb Bar-B-Q Grill & Italian Restaurant, 1026 Wolf St., used to become bona-fide grilling masters: Their ribs took first place at the Neil Stein/Garry Maddox Barbecue Challenge Aug. 6.

The event, which took place in Citizens Bank Park parking lot, pitted restaurant owners against each other in a friendly competition for a good cause. Amateurs also were welcome. Proceeds supported the Youth Golf and Academics Program, a charity founded by former Phillies centerfielder Maddox. Through corporate sponsorships, participants’ entry fees and donations, the event raised $60,000, said Kerry Williams, program executive director. The program "provides academic and development support services to assist children who reside in the city’s poorest parts of town," she said.

Pleased to showcase their barbecuing abilities for charity, the Barbatos also take pride in serving a unique blend of foods (hence, the name of their restaurant) to an area full of discerning cooks.

We decided to "put a twist on the restaurant – just to be different," Deb said. "We just didn’t want to be like another Italian restaurant in South Philly. That’s where we got the idea to barbecue."

THE NOTION TO incorporate ribs in the restaurant’s menu came after the couple gained ownership in 1990 from Frank’s father, Frank Sr., who began the business in 1951.

"It was a tavern that always had good food," said Frank Jr. "People came from different areas for tripe, ham sandwiches and roast beef."

While keeping these traditions alive, the couple, formerly of 10th and Ritner streets, decided to kick things up a notch. They frequently vacationed in Virginia and Maryland and were amazed by some of the tantalizing tastes they found. Philly establishments serving barbecue also gave them the notion to grill.

Next came creating a mouthwatering sauce that would win out. After consuming barbecue sauces at various restaurants and scouring recipe books, the two came up with their own creation. Frank said the main ingredients that give his sauce such distinctive flavor are bourbon and bacon. For diners craving a spicier blend, the Barbatos also invented a "hot-and-spicy Louisiana-style" sauce last year.

Restaurant staff member Nick Marra encouraged the couple to enter the competition.

"He said, ‘You guys have the best ribs in the city. You should enter the contest and show everybody,’" Frank said.

The Barbatos, who live in Barnsboro, N.J., got an early start the day of the competition, but apparently not early enough. Some were up and grilling at 8 a.m. The event had rules, including one that strictly forbade precooking meats.

"We had to keep out one of our main steps," said Frank, who added he was a bit intimidated by competitors who rolled up with massive grills.

By slow cooking then relocating the meat to different parts of the grill, Frank said he was able to get the tenderness his ribs are known for.

"I had to be vigilant on my ribs," Frank said. "If you burn them, forget it. You’re done. If they’re undercooked, they’re tough."

After going through three rounds and beating out 25 competitors, the couple’s eats were voted best in its category. They were awarded a trophy, which now sits in the restaurant next to other accolades they have received.

Event attendees were able to sample the prize-winning food and many took that opportunity, said the chefs.

"Everyone had the chance to face off with Maddox if they wanted to. We didn’t because we were out of ribs," Frank said. "People got tired of waiting and our [restaurant that night] was packed with people who couldn’t get our ribs."

The couple lauded other participants and honed in on the sheer pride in cooking that was evident at the contest. They describe their win as a "pleasant surprise" amongst such noteworthy contenders.

While Deb refers to her husband as the restaurant’s main chef, a modest Frank quickly corrects his wife.

"Everyone does their share," he said. "We have a really nice team here" giving partial credit to third chef Fred Tupper.

Due to their recent triumphs, the couple is constantly asked if they are considering expanding their seating to a second floor.

"If you get too big, I feel you lose something," said Frank, whose wife agreed.

"Like they say, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it," she added.

The couple, who has been married 20 years, is working on getting their barbecue sauce in stores by next year. They sell it at their restaurant for $5.95 a bottle.

Their free time is spent tending to their three kids: Frank, 19; Andrew, 16; and Kristina, 12.

Whether they won or lost the competition, the Barbatos were simply overjoyed to participate in a charitable cause.

"You do have to applaud that," Deb said. "Restaurants could not [raise money] on their own. We came back with a really good feeling – not only because we won, but just being there."