Tre Scalini

Tre Scalini was the first restaurant I reviewed and, since that delightful evening, I have dined at chef Franca DiRenzo’s trattoria on a number of occasions.

Tre Scalini, which means "three little steps" in Italian, is a popular BYOB just off Passyunk Avenue. When I first wrote about it, friends said, "Don’t review Tre Scalini. After you do we will never be able to get a table." I chuckled at this and always know to book a table at this popular spot.

I was able to get reservations for 6 p.m. on a weeknight. By the time we left, the bi-level restaurant was packed. A party of four arrived with no reservation and was told there was a 30-minute wait.

Edward, my mom Berthe and I settled into a roomy table. The interior design is nothing to write about. Some say it looks like the inside of a ski lodge since there is a lot of dark wood accented with long mirrors. But, patrons don’t come to Tre Scalini for the surroundings, they come for the food.

Our waiter advised us of the specials, opened our wine and brought us a fresh loaf of bread along with two dollops each of homemade hummus and black olive spread bathed in extra-virgin olive oil.

Mom began dinner with an antipasto of fresh slices of creamy mozzarella and red ripe Jersey tomatoes. A scattering of Gaeta olives were included on the plate. Just the right amount of extra-virgin olive oil was drizzled on the salad. It enhanced the flavors and textures of the cheese and tomatoes.

Edward’s polenta of the evening ($8.95) was a good-size square grilled to perfection and topped with a mound of broccoli rabe. It arrived so piping hot, we had to wait a bit before tasting. This version was creamy on the inside and crisp from the grill on the outside. The broccoli rabe was a fine contrast in tastes and the entire dish was properly seasoned.

My zupa de pesche ($10.95) was outstanding. Ironically, I watched a chef prepare Italian fish soup on television two hours before and, it looked so marvelous, I began to get hungry. DiRenzo uses Prince Edward Island mussels, tiny clams, shrimp and scallops in this simply delicious dish. A rich tomato broth is prepared with chopped onions, garlic, white wine and parsley. The fish is steamed in this tempting liquid for a few minutes, then served. Prince Edward Island mussels are clean and sweet. The shrimp and scallops retained a bit of crunch, but, oh those clams. Each was about the size of a nickel. There had to be about 20 in my soup, which I quickly devoured. I sipped the broth with a spoon, but gave in and dipped some bread. This dish is large enough for two, but I finished it all by myself.

Mom was in the mood for pasta so she selected angel hair with jumbo lump crabmeat ($15.95). Do you know how many restaurants state the chef uses jumbo shrimp or jumbo lump crabmeat, but what you get is medium shrimp and bits of shredded ordinary crabmeat? Not at Tre Scalini. The sauce was made with top-quality crabmeat, the type you pay $25 a pound for at neighborhood fish markets. Olive oil, white wine, garlic and chopped fresh Italian parsley made up the sauce, which was perfect for the delicate pasta. Mom had to wait to taste it since it arrived steaming. The portion was so generous, half of it was wrapped to go.

Cod was once an inexpensive mainstay in the North Atlantic region. Talented chefs know how to prepare it, including DiRenzo who served it alla Livornese ($21.95).

The Livornese sauce is a mix of fresh chopped tomatoes, black olives, capers, olive oil and white wine. It can enhance any fish or poultry. The fish was pan seared then topped with the sauce. When I cut into it, the flesh was translucent.

Neither Edward nor I liked the mound of sautéed zucchini and tomatoes that came with our entrees. It lacked eye appeal. I did taste the tomatoes and they were fine topped with a bit of Parmesan.

I have never tried veal tenderloin ($21.95), but my plate contained four round thick slices of nicely sauced meat. It was tender, but I just did not care for this cut. This is a matter of personal taste. The sauce, however, was a rich homemade reduction of pan juices that I did like.

From the dolci ($6) we selected a homemade ricotta cheesecake and — my favorite — tartufo. The cheesecake was a winner. It was neither too dense nor too light. The ricotta was fresh-tasting, enhanced by grated orange zest and a touch of orange juice. Tartufo is a classic ice-cream dessert made with chocolate and vanilla gelati. It is formed into a ball and coated with rich chocolate before it hits the freezer. When sliced into, there is a cherry inside. Our waiter, who took good care of us all evening as did another gentleman, cut it into four slices for all to enjoy.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Tre Scalini.

Tre Scalini
1533 S. 11th St. at Tasker Avenue
215-551-3870
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair accessible
BYOB
Reservations a must