Le Jardin

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During the holidays, I always seek out a romantic spot for my husband and I to enjoy dinner. The snowflake lights, the hustle and bustle of Center City and the new multi-colored projection lights on City Hall just put me in a fine mood.

I phoned Edward and told him to meet me at Le Jardin for an early dinner. This is one of the most romantic spots in the city.

Le Jardin is just off Rittenhouse Square in a gorgeous 90-year-old beaux-arts-style building. It was once the home of Opus 251, a marvelous place that closed two years ago when its celebrated chef, Anthony Bonnett, moved to the suburbs. It is now Le Jardin, which means "the garden" in French. The outdoor garden attached to the restaurant is open during the warm weather months.

Floss Barber, the award-winning architect/interior designer, did the design and furnishings for Opus 251. Little has changed save for a few large curved seating areas in the dining room.

I sipped a Rob Roy and chatted with Andrew the bartender as I waited for Edward. The bar area has a few tables, a fireplace and lovely candles here and there, which makes for romantic surroundings. Fresh flower arrangements dotted the rooms.

Yes, Le Jardin is still a beautiful restaurant.

As for the menu, I wanted to try some onion soup ($7) to warm me up on that blustery cold evening. Unfortunately, it arrived cold. The very salty broth was an unappetizing shade of black, like liquid tar. Not to worry. Andrew, who took very good care of us, brought over a menu and I made another selection.

I wanted a salad with blue cheese, but Andrew advised Le Jardin is putting together a new menu and it was not available. Meanwhile, Edward enjoyed the soup of the day ($6), a butternut squash puree with a light homemade stock that was quite tasty.

We munched on French rolls as I waited for a bowl of mussels ($8). They were Prince Edward Island mussels bathed in a light white wine broth with a touch of garlic. Several croutons, or what the French call slices of toasted French bread, arrived with the appetizer, which was most generous.

We each ordered a glass of Cotes du Rhone ($9), one of my favorites. It went well with our meals.

Edward loves lamb shank ($24) and I ordered the duck breast, but that, too, was not available. Instead, I chose skate ($19), a most unusual and delicious fish that has been all the rage for the past five years or so.

The lamb shank was meaty and tender, just as a braised piece of meat should be. It was simmered in broth and wine along with sliced carrots, onion and celery, which added a marvelous aroma and texture. A side order of whipped potatoes arrived in a small round soup bowl. I thought the lamb could have been hotter, but Edward disagreed.

Skate is a mild, white flesh fish that adapts to many preparations and sauces. This dish was dipped in a seasoned bread-crumb coating and quickly sautéed. I asked Andrew if the skate could be warmed up a bit because it was on the cool side. It came back hot and crisp, although I found the coating salty. Nicely done haricots vert were placed on a mound of whipped potatoes. The skate then topped the potatoes. Since I received a side of potatoes, I retrieved the green beans from their potato mound. I never cared for architectural wonders built up on a plate. In fact, this presentation was popular in the ’90s, but quickly made an exit.

For dessert, we shared a generous portion of rich vanilla ice cream.

Service was first rate. Andrew and another waiter kept a perfect pace for a romantic dinner. We were never rushed nor did we have to wait a long time between courses.

Le Jardin opened about 15 months ago and I discovered Robert Capella was named chef. He is one of the most talented men to ever wielded a sauté pan in this town. Unfortunately, he left before I visited Le Jardin.

I suspect the kitchen is feeling its way with the menu. Although our meal was uneven, the ingredients used in each dish were top quality.

One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Le Jardin.


Le Jardin
251 S. 18th St.
Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch
215-545-0821
Credit cards accepted
Restaurant is not wheelchair accessible