27136402
A few weeks ago, the Brazilian steakhouse Fogo de Chão opened at the old Caldwell Jewelers site on Chestnut Street. I have been waiting with anticipation to dine at this unique restaurant because I enjoyed similar meals in New York City. I was not a bit disappointed. Though arriving late in the year, it now joins my list as one of the best new restaurants of 2006.
Those who have fond memories of Caldwell recall its looming ceilings, intricately carved wood and crystal chandeliers. These beautiful surroundings remain.
The restaurant has a small bar area for diners to enjoy a drink before lunch or dinner. I sipped a martini ($9.50) and chatted with the bartender. The majority of the staff, clad in colorful gaucho dress, is from Brazil, with many having previously worked in the Chicago restaurant.
I was seated at a roomy table covered with crisp linen and matching napkins and munched on some slightly sweet rolls fresh from the oven. Each patron is given a coaster. One side is red and the other is green. Red indicates you are ready for the beautifully presented buffet. One of the waiters called it a salad bar, which brings to mind those run-of-the-mill, help-yourself buffets, but this one was a feast for the senses.
I began my culinary trip to Brazil with an antipasto plate consisting of thinly sliced Proscuitto di Parma; slightly spicy Genoa salami; jumbo, fresh artichoke bottoms; creamy, large balls of mozzarella; chunks of Grana Padano, served as a whole wheel; a wedge of Manchego, Spain’s most famous cheese; large, perfectly cooked asparagus; and several roasted red and yellow peppers. Bottles of extra-virgin olive oil and assorted vinegars rested atop the buffet. I am still dreaming of the jumbo globe artichokes that were peeled, cooked and the leaves discarded. They were the finest I have ever tasted. Obviously, the chefs have a fine cheese source in town. The mozzarella imparted a fresh, clean flavor and the Manchego was slightly salty, as it should be. Thick asparagus fares well when served cool and I liked that the peppers were not flimsy strips; Each had been cut into quarters. The Proscuitto di Parma and salami were the only meats on the buffet.
I then fixed a salad of spicy fresh watercress, perfect small Belgian endive and hearts of palm. I also sampled a slice of smoked salmon, which is the only fish served. Mixed greens, Caesar salad, whole leaves of Boston lettuce and other items are on the buffet, as well.
Fogo de Chão has an award-winning wine list and I selected a glass of Malbec ($8.50), a hearty red from Argentina I knew would enhance my meal.
Then the fun began. I turned my coaster to green and a bevy of waiters came to the table wielding long swords of every imaginable type of beef, pork, chicken and lamb. All were barbecued on these skewers. The waiter sliced as much as I wanted and I retrieved the meat with small tongs. The chefs have it right: If the lamb chops are not rare enough, someone comes over with a rarer meat. Each sampled dish was juicy and perfectly seasoned. (I didn’t reach for the salt or pepper once.)
Ten barbecued items are on offer and I’m not sure I tasted all of them because the staff was constantly encouraging me to try this or that. A highlight was the "picanha," a prime sirloin cooked with garlic and sea salt. The filet mignon was rare, juicy and filled with flavor, and I adored the "linguica," slow-roasted, homemade fat sausages with crispy casings. I grew up on lamb chops and never pass them up. When the ones offered were too well done, another waiter came over with a rare rack of lamb, which he cut into individual chops. I have never eaten finer "costela de porco," tender pork ribs that also were slow roasted and retained a crispy skin. I liked the contrast of tastes and textures. I enjoyed a slice of brisket, as well, which is called skirt steak here.
Three side dishes, all large portions, came with dinner. I received a ramekin of whipped, creamy mashed potatoes topped with snipped chives; slices of polenta dusted with Parmesan; and sweet, fried bananas, which I saved for dessert. When one waiter realized the latter had cooled down, he whisked them away and brought a fresh serving.
Service was excellent. I have never witnessed such a confident and pleasant staff. They were always coming in and out of the kitchen, but never intrusive, and I didn’t have to ask for my water glass to be filled.
It was a delightful experience — a meat-eater’s delight. I watched a group of men dig into their dinners with gusto and smiles. Vegetarians also can also enjoy by making a meal at the buffet for $19.50.
Lunch is $24.50 and dinner is $44.50; children can eat for $12.25 and $22.25. Ages 5 and under eat for free.
Fogo de Chão is a fine addition to Philadelphia’s ever-growing restaurant scene. Unfortunately, I do not know how to say "bravo" in Portuguese.
Three tips of the toque to Fogo de Chão.
Fogo de Chão
1337 Chestnut St.
215-636-9700
Credit cards accepted
www.fogodechao.com
