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It’s always a good idea to revisit a restaurant when a new chef takes over the kitchen. I reviewed the South Philadelphia Tap Room more than four years ago. I was delightfully surprised to discover that Chef Scott Schroeder is now orchestrating the kitchen. I enjoyed his bill of fare at the now-shuttered Deuce in Northern Liberties and wondered where he was cooking.
Located at the corner of 15th and Mifflin, the South Philadelphia Tap Room is everything a moderately-priced neighborhood pub should be.
As Edward and I looked over the menu, including specials listed on a separate sheet of paper, we learned there is an ever-increasing South Philly population gone vegan. The establishment offers a number of healthy options.
The roomy lounge area is kitted out with a long bar, exposed brick wall, numerous beers on tap and wooden booths. The section was filled to capacity with happy locals so we slid into a booth.
We sipped big icy cold martinis ($9) and decided on a succession of courses to share. There were four specials including a snack called homemade duck prosciutto with pickled ramps ($3). When I was in Israel, I ate prosciutto made from goose. Since duck is a near relative, I had a feeling Schroeder would do a fine job. He did. The plate contained about five thinly sliced servings of the breast, which had been air cured just like a ham would be made prosciutto style in Italy. It was heavenly.
Wild boar tacos ($9) were about the best I’ve ever sampled simply because I prefer slightly crispy shells over plain ones. The meat has a marvelous, slightly gamey flavor. It was seasoned, roasted, shredded and stuffed into two crisp taco shells. The natural pan juices added moistness, as did the tasty guacamole which was placed on the boar. It was a fine flavor combination.
Since chicken wings are included in the natural order of things when it comes to pub fare, we decided to try Southern fried chicken wings ($8). About a half dozen meaty wings were coated in seasoned crumbs and fried until more than golden brown. I thought they were a tad overdone but this was a matter of personal taste. A small mound of tangy collard greens were a good match. I like to see vegetables pop up on a dish unexpectedly. The homemade blue cheese dipping sauce, spiked with Tabasco, was unusually flavorful.
Next up was a big chopped salad ($10). Schroeder’s version was filled with fresh ingredients including avocado, red onion, tomatoes and hard-cooked eggs. It was topped with a buttermilk blue cheese dressing. Vegans take note: This salad can be prepared without hard-cooked eggs and tossed in a classic red wine vinegar dressing.
Edward and I often share a pint of an ale or lager. Since we were not too familiar with the brews on tap we asked Marlene, our knowledgeable server, to make the selection for us. She chose a pint of the Standard Ale ($5) which drank well with the wings and salad.
It’s unusual to find rainbow trout in a neighborhood pub. It was listed with the specials and since we liked the menu description, we ordered it. Crispy rainbow trout ($16) consisted of the whole fish, which was gutted and filleted with the skin on. It was crispy and free of grease. I like crispy fish skin and if you’ve never tasted it, try it. Trout has a marvelous light, sweet flavor. The preparation was classic French. The dish was finished in a brown butter sauce with blanched almonds. Asparagus, fresh from Jersey farms, have been in the market for the past few weeks. Several of these beauties were seasoned, grilled and placed on the plate. They are filled with flavor and since they did not spend time on an airplane, they’re so much better than the ones flown in from Mexico and Peru during the winter months.
Service was excellent. Marlene and a waiter took care of everyone in the bar area, dining room and outside. The South Philadelphia Tap Room was filled with locals enjoying a pint, a sandwich, platter or meal made up of a succession of Schroeder’s delicious dishes.
I recall his cheesesteak spring rolls he created when he was at Deuce. Maybe he will add them to the menu.
Three tips of the toque to the South Philadelphia Tap Room.
South Philadelphia Tap Room
1509 Mifflin St.
215-271-7787
www.southphiladelphiataproom.com
