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We are all familiar with the term "artistic license." There have been productions of "Hamlet" performed by troupes in modern dress, or other classic tales that zoom into the 21st century. Can a chef use culinary license to tweak a recipe? I think so, especially if the ingredients work and do not fight each other.
There are many classics where a single component can be substituted for another. The Cobb salad was invented at Hollywood’s Brown Derby, with the roast turkey being a key element. Would it still be a winner if I put in small Gulf shrimp for the fowl?
Peach Melba was created by the great French chef Auguste Escoffier in honor of Australian soprano Nellie Melba. It’s garnished with raspberry sauce. Since I am not too fond of raspberries, can I make a strawberry coulis instead?
Pesto became all the rage a number of years ago. In a "Seinfeld" episode, George admits to Jerry and Elaine he doesn’t like it. This classic sauce from Genoa is prepared with basil and pine nuts. Could walnuts be used? Sure. I saw a version like this on a restaurant menu a few years back. But replacing the basil with parsley does not work. It lacks the heady flavor and aroma necessary for the sauce to do its tasty job.
Culinary license borders on creativity. Economy comes into play, as well. Chicken can often be used in place of pricey veal in any number of recipes. Local strawberries are in the markets now. They are deep red and very sweet. Peaches have arrived from Georgia and South Carolina. We will have to wait until next month when the Jersey crop is harvested to find even more options with lower prices.
Cobb Salad with Shrimp
Ingredients:
1 head each of romaine and Boston lettuce, torn into pieces
1 ripe tomato, diced
1/2 pound of Gulf shrimp
1 avocado, sliced
1/2 pound of bacon, crisped and cut into bite-size pieces
1/2 pound of blue cheese, crumbled
1 hard-cooked egg, diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup of olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Directions:
After making a bed of the greens and tomatoes on two chilled salad plates, top with the remaining ingredients in individual, compartmentalized strips, each running the length of the salad. Season with the salt and pepper.
In a small bowl, whisk the oil and lemon juice together. Pour over the salad.
Serves two.
Note from Phyllis: A Cobb salad is a composed salad. Although Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or Maytag Blue cheese are essential, this dish is always dressed in a vinaigrette.
Peach Melba
Ingredients:
1 pint of strawberries, hulled
2 large ripe peaches, pitted and halved
4 scoops of vanilla ice cream
Whipped cream
Slivered almonds, optional
Directions:
Place the strawberries in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Process until smooth.
Place each peach half on a chilled plate, deep, glass-footed dessert plate or in an oversized red wine glass. Place a generous scoop of ice cream on top of each peach. Pour the strawberry coulis over each serving. Top with the whipped cream and almonds.
Serves four.
Note from Phyllis: Escoffier poached the peaches in a simple syrup in the original recipe. When peaches are ripe and juicy, there is no need to poach them.
