27168057
Several weeks ago, Effie Boukidis opened Paul, a 28-seat BYOB on Pine Street’s Antique Row. I looked forward to dining there because I always enjoyed her delicious Greek cuisine at Effie’s, which she opened 12 years ago.
Cousin Carl and I wondered why a woman would open a second restaurant directly across the street from her first. We thought it might be a trendy, little plate place featuring mezze and other Mediterranean fare. We were in for a delightful surprise.
Paul is named in honor of Boukidis’ late father. It’s a spacious room, awash with soft colors and perfect lighting and acoustics. Effie was caring for customers the night of our visit. She opened our wine, brought us slices of Sarcone’s immediately recognizable seeded bread, as well as softened butter.
The menu is a mix of European-inspired dishes with a nod to new American bistro fare.
House-cured duck proscuitto salad ($12) was vibrant and tasty. This was the second time I had tasted meat cured from duck. I had sampled it made with goose in Israel a number of years ago. The thinly sliced breast was enhanced by a port wine reduction that added a bit of sweetness to the bird. A small mound of mixed baby greens, a cool poached pear and a crispy, slightly salty Gorgonzola fritto emitted a balance of flavors and textures.
Oysters three ways ($12) consisted of the classic raw in the French-style topped with finely minced shallots and cucumbers along with a drizzle of piquillo pepper sherry. The second was coated with warm creamed spinach, a take on oysters Rockefeller. The last was prepared with bits of crispy smoked bacon. Each was immaculately fresh and I could’ve eaten a dozen of them.
From the entrees, we selected tagliatelle ($17) and smoked pork chop ($23). Since Carl and I like to share, we asked Effie if both could be split in the kitchen. "Of course," she said with a smile.
The pasta was fresh and slightly al dente. Finely chopped bits of fresh tomatoes were mixed with tiny capers, fresh asparagus and Pecorino Romano. Although this was a vegetarian delight, even carnivores will enjoy it. All it required was a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
Pork is often overcooked in restaurants. It’s not edible when it’s dry as dust. This 12-ounce chop was juicy and slightly pink inside. Sliced prettily on the plate, its smoky flavor played well against a puree of mild cannellini beans and broccoli rabe. I usually don’t care for pureed vegetables, yet this was tasty. I was surprised I enjoyed it.
Five desserts are offered. Since fresh figs are coming into season, Carl and I ordered the pear and fig tart ($9). The pastry was similar to phyllo and retained some crunch. Pears and figs work well in a sweet, especially if served with ice cream. A scoop of pistachio praline gelato topped off the dessert.
Effie, who does not know me, brought us a complimentary dessert. If you have never tried chocolate pancakes ($8), you’re in for a treat. Three pancakes, a little bit larger than the classic silver-dollar variety, were prepared with top-quality bittersweet cocoa that made my taste buds soar. A warm rum and walnut reduction, a banana fritto and a scoop of espresso gelato made this one of the tastiest restaurant desserts I’ve tried in recent memory.
Service was excellent. Fresh flatware arrived with each course and our water glasses were kept filled.
It is a pleasure to dine in a restaurant where you don’t need a flashlight to read the menu, the acoustics are in balance and patrons don’t have to shout at each other and loud, pulsating, annoying music is nowhere within earshot.
Three tips of the toque to Paul.
Paul
1120 Pine St.
215-238-0210
