Schlesinger’s Delicatessen 

July 14, 2011

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French cuisine remains my favorite, but I hanker for an authentic Jewish deli. About a year ago, I discovered Delicatessen, 703 Chestnut St. I have always enjoyed a fine meal there. 

But the deli gods are smiling upon us. While strolling on Locust Street a few weeks ago, I noticed Schlesinger’s Delicatessen, which replaced Kibitz Room. I no longer have to schlep to Seventh and Chestnut when I crave hot fatty pastrami on rye, kreplach soup, nova, eggs and onions, and hamantaschen so fine, with buttery flaky dough that melts in your mouth, that would have made my grandmother jealous. 

Schlesinger’s is a no-frills space with simple tables and chairs, a TV for viewing, display cases filled with everything from smoked fish to sweets and a free condiment bar loaded with half-done pickles, cucumber salad, potato salad, sauerkraut and health slaw. 

I’ve been to Schlesinger’s on several occasions. The only disappointments were the entrées at dinnertime. 

Schlesinger’s offers soup and a half sandwich for $8.95. I have tried three soups. All were as fine as mine. Matzo ball soup is made with heavenly chicken stock and fresh dill. The dumpling was a floater not a sinker. The stock was made with carrots and onions and included bow tie pasta. The beef kreplachs were little pillows of dough filled with seasoned, chopped meat. They were just a bit larger than gnocchi. Mushroom barley is a favorite from my childhood. Schlesinger’s version was rich with chopped carrots, onions and celery along with heady mushrooms in a light chicken stock. All of the soups arrived piping hot. 

Now on to the stars of the show: The corned beef and the pastrami ($8.95). More than 8 ounces of meat were piled high on Kaplan’s fresh, slightly chewy, crusty rye. I asked for fatty corned beef because the lean stuff does not cut the mustard with me. I smeared on some brown mustard and was in deli heaven. Although I liked the corned beef, the pastrami was the big winner. It is juicy, filled with smoky flavor and not a bit salty.  

I do not know who first decided to scramble eggs with nova and onions. This person should get a culinary medal. Nova, eggs and onions ($10.95) can be enjoyed either scrambled or as a pancake. I prefer the softly scrambled version. My breakfast was a triumph. You get a choice of toast or a toasted bagel. A nicely toasted poppy seed bagel with cream cheese along with thinly sliced home-fried potatoes completed my breakfast. La Colombe coffee ($2) is served here. 

At dinner, we sampled roasted chicken ($15.95) and angus brisket of beef ($15.95). You get a choice of either soup or salad and one side dish. 

The chicken was overcooked, dry and anemic. Edward opted for potato pancakes as a side and alas, they were dry and lifeless. 

My brisket was perfectly cooked and thinly sliced, but the gravy looked like viscous hot fudge sauce. My dinner was cold and salty. Our server brought me some plain brisket with no gravy that fared better. It was toted home along with a half of Kaplan’s rye for sandwiches the next day. The side of kasha and bows, however, was splendid.  

Do not under any circumstances miss the hamantaschen ($3). I sampled prune and apricot and can honestly tell you they were as fine as the ones my grandmother so lovingly baked during Purim. The pastry just melts in your mouth and the fruit fillings are fresh and not at all sweet. 

Schlesinger’s offers a full deli menu. You can even order fried matzo even though Passover is a memory. 

The deli is now one of my go-to places for breakfast, brunch or lunch. At the dinner hour, however, I’ll go for sandwiches, soups or smoked fish. 

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Schlesinger’s Delicatessen. SPR 