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Burgeoning Pennsport will continue its culinary growth, as a new bistro is set to open next spring in the old Bell’s Delly space at 1527 S. Fourth St.
Aptly named “Fourth and Cross,” this new venture is the work of industry vet Andrew Michaels, who last ran E’s Cafe in what is now B2, 1500 Passyunk Ave. With additional credits that include time at Sabrina’s, Honey’s Sit & Eat, and Di Bruno Bros., his career has run the gambit of Philly’s bistro/diner scene — adding up to a sturdy confidence in the articulation and presumed execution of his new joint’s concept.
“I think people just want a nice neighborhood joint they can go to with fresh seasonal food that’s just good,” Michaels said with enthusiasm. “The best roast chicken you’ll ever have, great dessert, all the bread and pretty much everything made in house.”
Michaels will serve as executive chef and general manger, taking a hands-on approach in bringing Fourth and Cross to life. He names Sam’s Morning Glory, 735 S. 10th St., and Rittenhouse Square-based Parc among his inspirations in the sense that dining there assures “a solid meal every time.” Vegan and vegetarian will also have a substantial place on the menu, not to fill some sort of quota but because all diners have grown to expect sophisticated options of that ilk at any meal. Overall, the menu aims to be seasonal and local with a rotation of fresh weekly specials. Refreshingly, Michaels wants Fourth and Cross to bring back the true spirit of the restaurant special that has been pushed aside by many in recent years.
“Weekly specials are something that makes it affordable for people to come into a restaurant,” he said. “Specials will also have a lot to do with conversations I am having with individual suppliers. If a farmer comes up to me and says I have three cases of cherry tomatoes, then I’m making cherry tomato preserves.”
Key, of course, will be the selection of a full-time chef to work under Michaels, and he acknowledged that he has put some feelers out as well as talked some shop as the search is getting under way.
“It is a process that goes along with the timeline of opening a restaurant,” he explained. “It is not just who is available but who has the right aesthetic.”
A Pennsport resident himself, Michaels has seen firsthand the recent influx of new energy into one of South Philly’s oldest and most architecturally colonial sections. Only a block or so off Dickinson Square, he appreciates new investment in that public space and has batted around getting his new restaurant involved in future events there.
With this fresh tide has come a slew of new dining options — The Industry, Moonshine, Grindcore House — that complement already established neighborhood spots and offer creative, not complicated fare at reasonable price points. Fourth and Cross aspires to build on this trend.
“It is going to be a neighborhood place serving breakfast, lunch and dinner where people could afford to come and feed their families. Put aside whatever was going on outside for 45 minutes to an hour and smile because you’re getting fed well,” Michaels said.
He has learned quickly that few things drub up as much excitement and encouragement as a new restaurant in South Philly. A welcoming feeling that he has not taken for granted, Michaels has been open and honest in serving up details to neighbors. In keeping with that, outside seating will be set up only along the Cross Street side to limit early morning noise experienced by residents.
“I saw it as a place to settle down and make some roots,” he recalled from his time scouting out new space. “Everybody in Pennsport has been really wonderful. I spend a lot of time sitting on my stoop and all day long it’s conversations with neighbors asking when we’re going to open. People have been so positive and supportive.”
Michaels encourages neighbors and interested diners to check out their Facebook page for more info as the opening approaches. But what it really comes down to is the food, and everyone is eager to see what exactly will be on that menu.
“People ask me, what kind of food are you going to serve? And I say ‘good food,’ and they say ‘no, what kind,’ and I say tasty, good food,’" he said with a laugh. “One day it could be eggs Benedict on the menu but it might have a Korean kimchi pancake underneath, or it may be chocolate pudding but it might have bits of candied orange peel in it. It could also simply be a whole fish grilled with some lemon and butter on it. That’s a good meal.”
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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