Brigantessa’s Black Chick Pea Pappardelle with Whey Braised Lamb Ragu

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Those strolling along East Passyunk Avenue may encounter Joe Cicala running back and forth during the course of the evening. The chef is not lost, but simply juggling his executive chef roles at Le Virtù, 1927 E. Passyunk Ave., and Brigantessa, 1520 E. Passyunk Ave. He manages this menu of responsibilities along with the titles of husband to pastry chef Angela Ranalli and father to 6-year-old Augustino.

The establishment is described as an authentic forneria serving southern Italian cuisine including wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas and other oven-baked dishes, wood-grilled meats, house-cured salumi, seasonal antipasti and hard-to-find Italian wine and beer. With 20 lower level seats and 50 to 55 upstairs, the restaurant has quickly wowed locals.

“I didn’t know it would be this popular right off the bat,” he said of the location named for the female briganti — legendary guerilla warriors that resisted the unification of Italy in the 1860s and continued doing so even after the north came into power. “It’s been very stressful.”

Living up to the high avenue standards is nothing new for the 32-year-old who calls 12th and Ritner streets home.

“I am really proud to be involved, and I am trying my best to keep it going,” Cicala said.

Chef/Owner Joe Cicala

The three-time James Beard Award semifinalist will likely be getting many pizza orders, as Brigantessa’s has a centrally located wood-burning oven that was hand-made to order in Naples and mortared with volcanic ash from Vesuvius. Cicala is up to the challenge, as he traveled to Italy to earn his Pizzaiolo Verace certification (demonstrating his pizza prowess in front of a committee, as required by law).

“We’re excited to bring the unpretentious, live-in-the-moment spirit of southern Italy to our neighborhood’s dining scene, and we look forward to lingering over a vera pizza napoletana and an American or Italian beer, or perhaps a glass or two of wine shared with friends, both old and new,” Cicala said.

Pasta Ingredients:

3/4 cup black of chickpea/garbanzo flour

1 cup of “00” flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

3 extra large eggs at room temperature

1 teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil

Directions:

Using the “well” method, place the flours on a work surface, and create a volcano in the center. Add the eggs and oil, and mix with a fork, slowly incorporating the flour.

Once the mixture is somewhat homogenous, kneed for five minutes by hand until the dough becomes firm and smooth. Let rest for one hour covered in the refrigerator. Using a pasta machine, roll out the dough from the largest setting to the second to smallest. Cut the dough into 1-inch strips approximately 6-inches long. Cook in salted boiling water for three minutes or until tender. Add the cooked pasta to a pan with the ragu and toss. Serve with pecorino cheese, and dust with fennel pollen.

Ragu Ingredients:

1⁄4 cup of extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons of unsalted butter

1 rib of celery, finely chopped

1⁄2 Medium yellow onion, finely chopped

1⁄2 Medium carrot, finely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 pounds of lamb shoulder cubed

1 cup of dry white wine

2 bay leaves

2 sprigs of rosemary

1/2 gallon of whey or 1 percent milk

Directions:

In a large pot, sweat the vegetables in the olive oil and butter over medium heat until translucent. Add the lamb cubes, and turn the heat up to medium-high in order to slightly brown the meat. Deglaze the pan with white wine and add the herbs. Reduce the wine until nearly dry, and add the whey. Simmer for one hour or until the lamb is tender enough to shred with a wooden spoon. ■

Brigantessa

Owners: Francis Cratil-Cretarola, Cathy Lee and Joe Cicala

Opened Oct. 14. 2014

1520 E. Passyunk Ave.

267-318-7341

brigantessaphila.com

Photos by Corey Carter

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