Good Dog

Good Dog
224 S. 15th St.
215-985-9600
Visa and MasterCard accepted
Tavern too narrow for a wheelchair
Open daily
www.Gooddogbar.com

Sometime after the repeal of Prohibition, Frank Clement’s, a tavern, opened on South 15th Street. Through the years, the popular gathering place went from a watering hole for a sandwich and a pint of beer to a destination for a martini lunch.

Several months ago, I noticed a new sign on the old Frank Clement’s. So, on an early weeknight, I headed over to the new place — called Good Dog — with my husband and my mother for a quick bite. We left 90 minutes later feeling sated from a very good dinner.

Little has changed inside the tavern. The long wood bar with high-backed barstools are still in use, the decorative tin ceiling has benefited from a coat of paint, and ersatz blue Tiffany lamps provide adequate lighting. New additions include charming black and white snaps of a variety of pooches.

A few T-shirt-and shorts-clad patrons were enjoying pints at the bar. We slid into a roomy booth and had fun discussing the menu. Our server told us Good Dog opened last November and pointed to a young woman sitting at the bar wearing classic chef’s whites. "That’s the chef," he said.

Big icy-cold martinis were just $6. I almost slid off my seat. The menu states "Bone Appetit," and lists 22 items. Many were truly intriguing. The concept reminded me of Northern Liberties’ Standard Tap — a tavern whose menu takes culinary risks.

The woman in charge of the kitchen is executive chef Jessica Curley, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. This probably explained why she placed duck pot pie ($15) on the menu along with upscale salads and a grilled cheese sandwich made with fontina, asiago and gruyere, thinly sliced sautéed apples and applewood smoked bacon served on brioche and baked in the oven ($8.50).

We sampled all three salads: the Good Dog ($7), the Caesar ($6) and the calamari ($8). All were winners. A word of caution: The first two were huge, while the third was just large.

The Good Dog salad consisted of crisp romaine, endive and baby arugula topped with sweet dried cranberries that had been plumped, crumbled tangy goat cheese, and crisp sliced almonds bathed in a light vinaigrette accented with vanilla. Much thought went into building this delicious first course. The contrast of tastes and textures was glorious.

The Caesar was a hefty bowl of romaine topped with shaved asiago cheese and homemade crispy croutons tossed in homemade — emphasis again on homemade — Caesar dressing. For the calamari salad, Curley grilled baby squid, which had been marinated in olive oil and fresh herbs, and set them atop a bed of fresh spring mix with heady aromatic fennel, sliced oranges and crispy shallots. The dressing was sublime, a combo of olive oil and fresh orange juice that had been infused with sundried tomatoes and fresh dill.

For our entrées, three beautifully executed culinary winners were brought to the table freshly prepared and piping hot, all made with top-quality ingredients.

Mom’s macaroni and cheese ($12) was an absolute triumph. It arrived in a large oval French white ramekin. This favorite comfort food was prepared with Gruyere, Gouda and aged white cheddar cheeses. Curley prepared a rich béchamel that was blended, along with the cheese, into elbow macaroni. The surprise: She topped the casserole with corn flakes and baked it in the oven. A homemade blueberry muffin came alongside.

I have never eaten duck pot pie. I never even thought about substituting duck for chicken or turkey. Curley’s version ($15) was made with homemade pastry, rich with butter, flaky and baked until golden brown. As soon as Edward pierced the pastry, steam arose and we noticed the ramekin was filled with heady duck confit, peas, shiitake mushrooms, celery, carrots, onions and potatoes, enhanced by dreamy duck gravy. I particularly liked the fact that there was pastry on the bottom of the ramekin as well as on top. I had a difficult time keeping my fork out of Edward’s dinner.

My roasted chicken dinner ($14) consisted of a free-range chicken breast that was pan-seared and stuffed with a mixture of fresh herbs, creamy mascarpone, asiago and Parmesan cheeses. It was roasted to perfection; when I cut into the chicken, the meat was succulent, tender and not a bit overcooked. It was served in natural pan juices — what the French call "au jus." My dinner arrived with piping hot, creamy mashed potatoes and a mound of glorious fresh sautéed spinach studded with garlic.

Good Dog has a fine list of beers on tap and in the bottle. My mom tried her first Stella Artois ($3 for a pint) from Belgium and absolutely loved it.

By the time we left, the place was packed with business-clad men and women and young people sporting colorful body art. The patrons were as diverse as Curley’s delightful menu.

Three tips of the toque to Good Dog.