Zorba’s Tavern

One week from tomorrow, the eyes of the world will focus on Athens, one of the ancient capitals of the world. The Greeks gave us glorious architecture, intriguing stories and myths, the frying pan and the Olympic Games. The modern Olympiad returns to Greece for two weeks of sport.

Thus I thought it appropriate to review a Greek restaurant, especially since I have not written about one in two years. Philadelphia has several marvelous places that serve delicious Greek fare: Dmitri’s in Queen Village and Fitler Square, Effie’s on Antique Row, South Street Souvlaki and Zorba’s Tavern in Fairmount — a neighborhood with a number of Greek-American residents.

I distinctively recall the dishes Edward and I sampled at Zorba’s when I last reviewed the restaurant. We dined on myriad fish and shellfish dishes, including grilled octopus and charcoal-roasted shrimp. For this review, I wanted to focus on cold appetizers, lamb and vegetables.

Zorba’s is BYOB, so we opted for a rich Spanish red wine that would drink well with hearty vegetables and lamb. Edward, my mom Berthe and I sat down at a roomy table for four set with white linen napkins. There are pretty hand-painted murals of the colorful Greek islands. We were serenaded with Greek music, including the classic Never on Sunday.

Our waitress opened and poured our wine and gave us time to peruse the 100-percent authentically Greek menu. She brought us a warm loaf of homemade bread that was similar in taste and texture to a Tuscan round loaf. A ramekin of olive oil and vinegar also arrived.

Three tips of the toque straightaway: There were no specials and no overpriced dishes and, thank goodness, no recitation of a culinary War and Peace.

We asked our server if the cold combination appetizer ($9.50) would be big enough for three. She said it was, but when it was brought to the table it really would serve only two. No matter; each individual mezze was superb and completely homemade.

The plate contained tzatziki, which is thick homemade yogurt blended with garlic, olive oil and fresh dill; skordalia, a dip made with garlic, bread crumbs, olive oil and vinegar; marvelous, creamy hummus, loaded with garlic, pureed chick peas, olive oil, lemon juice, a hint of cumin and tahim, which is a tasty sesame paste; kopanisti, which is whipped feta cheese, olive oil and hot peppers blended together; tarama, made from orange caviar, olive oil, lemon juice and whipped potato; melitzana, chopped roasted eggplant salad, garlic, olive oil, chopped peppers and a bit of Greek feta cheese; one dolmades, the marvelous stuffed grape leaves prepared with cool rice and herbs along with sliced cucumber; a few Kalamata olives and sliced tomatoes. The combination of tastes and textures here was a triumph, and I could easily have built a meal around these little first courses.

We shared a large horiatiki, the famous Greek peasant salad ($7.50), which was a most generous portion of ripe sliced tomatoes, sliced cucumber, thin rings of sweet red onion and Kalamata olives tossed in a balsamic vinaigrette and topped with feta. Here is an example of how glorious a simple dish can be when prepared with top-quality ingredients and served in the right touch of dressing. Even Greek Americans have taken a liking to balsamic vinegar, and its inclusion worked well in this tasty dish.

We then tucked into three distinctly different entr�es. Mom adored her stuffed eggplant ($9), called imam baldi in Greek. She received half of an eggplant, not at all bitter and properly roasted and topped with saut�ed onions, which were mixed with feta and a savory tomato sauce. I tasted it and now want to make it at home for the Opening Ceremonies.

Edward loves lamb shank and eats it everywhere. Zorba’s version ($14) consisted of a meaty, tender shank cooked in the classic avgolemono sauce — a tangy, rich egg-lemon sauce — along with artichokes. The ingredients were in tasty balance.

Greeks love meatballs just like everyone else. Ground lamb is often blended with ground beef, since lamb is the meat of choice throughout Greece. My dinner ($14) was called soutzoukakia and consisted of three creamy, melt-in-your-mouth egg-shaped meatballs made from twice-ground beef and lamb. They were nicely seasoned with onions, garlic, cumin and black pepper and were oven-roasted in a red wine tomato sauce that was out of this world.

Our dinners came with roasted oven potatoes, a bit crisp outside, creamy inside; perfectly steamed rice, which retained a slightly toothsome quality; green beans in a light tomato sauce and a slice of red ripe tomato. The vegetables were as fine as the eggplant, lamb shank and meatballs.

The late Anthony Quinn portrayed Zorba the Greek on Broadway and in the film version with the late great British actor Alan Bates. Quinn was so convincing that a lot of people thought he was of Greek descent. A sketch of Quinn dancing and snapping his fingers graces the menus at this fine restaurant.

In case you didn’t do the math, our bill came to $57, including tax. Dining at Zorba’s is a delicious bargain, indeed.

Three tips of the toque to Zorba’s.

Zorba’s Tavern
2230 Fairmount Ave.
215-978-5990
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible, except bathroom (too small)
Several outdoor tables
BYOB
www.zorbastavern.com